Buyer’s Guide to Vintages July 6th Release

The Hail Mary Strike!

By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato, Megha Jandhyala

We are forging ahead with our review of the large July 6 Vintages release, which thanks to the LCBO strike, you can only order on-line, and wait two or three days for delivery. On July 19, if the strike is not settled, a few stores will be open on a limited weekend schedule. We also direct your attention to a recently published article by our John Szabo on the world’s first Volcanic Wine Awards that he convened in New York this summer (more below).

And now to the strike. The media — social and otherwise — has been full of piecemeal reporting and commentary about the first LCBO strike in the almost 100-year history of the organization. Some of the commentary is fallacy and misrepresentation, whether intended or not. But it does reflect the multiple viewpoints, agendas and axes being ground around a very complex issue.

Advertisement

Advertisement

So, I am going to join the fray and stake my claim as a wine lover, writing for other wine lovers. I don’t care as much about the labour, social and financial issues. But I can, as a fine wine-oriented observer of long standing, speak up for my constituents, and provide some historical context.

To be clear, this strike is OPSEU’s Hail Mary — a desperate attempt to get Doug “Floppo” Ford to change his mind about the on-rushing liberalization of alcohol retailing. He did it on the Greenbelt, right?   

But it won’t happen this time because the privatization concept has deep roots, and the first move came in 2015 with limited supermarket sales. It was about to bust wide open in the April 2020 budget after a long government review of the system, but COVID intervened. Still, it accelerated during COVID when licensees were allowed to sell out the door and were granted a lower wholesale price. By the end of COVID some of these entities had morphed into so-called bottle shops. On Sept 5 this year, convenience stores will begin to sell beer, wine and ready to drink alcohol beverages (3,000 applications to date). And as of November 1, the field will blow wide open with big box stores, like Costco and Walmart, able to join in.

So yes, the LCBO unionized workers have every reason to fear for their job security, just like the rest of us living and working in these rapidly changing and scary times. But they have lived within the safety of the unionized monopoly bubble for so long that they have grown to feel entitled to their jobs forever. To justify this, they preach all the ills of privatization, posturing as Ontario’s guardian angels.  

Back to the history lesson. One of the most half-assed ideas out there now — often cited by the union — is that liberalization is a new idea hatched by Premier Ford to benefit his “cronies.” Which is typical NDP suds. In fact, serious study of the concept goes back more than 30 years, ever since Alberta privatized in 1993. I remember Liberal premier David Peterson campaigning on the idea, only shelving it when he ended up with a minority government and backed off in a deal to garner NDP support.

At that time, I was writing about wine for The Globe and Mail and arguing for privatization — as I have all my adult life. I was invited by then LCBO CEO Andy Brandt to share my views at an LCBO corporate retreat at a resort near Barrie, which I did, arguing that the monopoly system was severely restricting consumer choice and convenience around fine wine in particular, while choking wine commerce in the province and embarrassing Ontario on the global wine stage. The smattering of applause for my presentation was short-lived.  

I was followed on stage by a much fierier speech by former OPSEU head Smokey Thomas, who vowed that every cent the union could muster would go into advertising campaigns to sway public opinion to fight privatization from that moment on. And fighting they are.

Another frustrating media misinterpretation of the current situation is that this is only about convenience stores. They are certainly high profile and widespread, but they are really just the tug boats steering the ship into open and perhaps even more stormy waters. This option will certainly address the issue of convenience, but most wine fans, myself included, will not be shopping at these stores for wine. When the strike began on July 5, I was at a funeral in Quebec and was able to check out the rather dismal selection in convenience stores, gas stations and dépanneur stores there.

Things will really get interesting when the big box stores and virtually every supermarket and grocery store starts to carry wine and beer. The selection will widen dramatically, and be geared to the demographics of particular neighbourhoods. Quality and quantity will increase, as will price competition.  Ontario will begin to feel like almost every other jurisdiction in North America and Europe.

And lest we forget the bottle shops (and 19,000 restaurants able to sell off-premise). I have not heard one mass media story mention that these essentially private wine shops already exist, and that they have a large, alternative, interesting and sometimes eclectic selection being purchased directly from importing agents and Ontario wineries. They have sprouted impressively since COVID, although largely concentrated in downtown Toronto’s neighbourhoods. There is a website called bottleshopTO.com  that lists over 50 in operation as we speak. They will continue to proliferate as restaurants look for new ways to make a go in tough times. (Welcome the Local Bottle Shop in Innisfil). This strike will fuel their growth.

So, what is the fate of LCBO workers? They will go back to work — don’t ask me when, on what terms, or for how long.  But it just doesn’t add up that the province can quadruple retail outlets in the years ahead without the LCBO’s retail role and those jobs dwindling. There will be a noisy transition period over a couple of years. If I were an LCBO employee who actually enjoys the wine business I would be looking around for other options.

And geez, they might even help grow a high-quality, privatized industry that creates even more jobs and tax revenues. I have no doubt a privatized, greatly expanded retail system will deliver far more revenue to the government than is being delivered now, without the tremendous overhead of running 600 unionized stores. Other jurisdictions in Canada and abroad have been operating thusly for years, delivering higher per-capita returns to their taxpayers than the LCBO.

So on to our review of the July 6 Vintages release, arranged in ascending price order within style groupings.

Buyer’s Guide July 6: Whites

Abcdarium Azal Branco 2022, Vinho Verde, Portugal
$16.95, LOUIS CHARLES AGENCY

Michael Godel – From winemaker/oenologist António Sousa’s personal label and a vineyard planted in 2003, in Amarante. Sousa is an avesso specialist but never averse to other A’s, as here with azal that also works wonders from Vinho Verde.

Vinum Chardonnay 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$18.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – Radford Dale’s “entry-level” chardonnay is a flinty-reductive bomb in the style that we like, all struck match and other sulfides, a polarizing style when taken to this extreme, though the impressive depth and texture is undeniable, as is the perfectly integrated oak and the excellent length. I have to say, for $19, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more interesting chardonnay from anywhere, one that, if the price were tripled, wouldn’t cause a second glance from those in the know. Drink or hold into the early 2030s.

Terra Fageto Fenèsia Pecorino 2022, Marche, Italy
$18.95, Frontier Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – This organically grown pecorino from the small Offida appellation in Adriatic Italy shows a lifted pure nose of sweet hay, lemon, peach and a touch of honey. It is medium weight, substantial yet lively and very well balanced, with a sense of enlivening spritz.

Tenute Pieralisi Villaia Classico Superiore Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi 2021, Marche, Italy
$24.95, Rare Earth Wines
John Szabo -Lovely aromatics here, complex, herbal-fruity-floral, with no evident oak influence and excellent volume in the category. The palate is juicy and fleshy, with intriguing honeyed-saffron-like flavours. I like the botanical nature, and the depth and breadth of flavour, rare in this price range. Great length, too. Drink or hold 2–4 years.

Mission Hill Reserve Pinot Gris 2023, British Columbia, Canada
$20.75, Mark Anthony Group
Michael Godel – Crisp, forward, clean and tidy for pinot gris that not only serves up a sense of place, but does so with distinction. Love the fruit and herb crunch, the lime squeeze and zesty spicing. Great liveliness and thirst quenching style. Bravo.

Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$21.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – An ideal mix of chew and crunch, bite and texture, softness and spice. Ripe and rife with life for a well-positioned and -priced piece of Malivoire’s ouevre.

Jules Taylor Pinot Gris 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand
$21.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason NZ is a great source for pinot gris that nicely captures Alsatian opulence while patching in freshness and zest. This shows fairly generous, gentle aromas of peach, honey and linden flower. It is medium weight, fleshy yet dry.

Auntsfield Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Marlborough, New Zealand
$22.95, DB Wine & Spirits
David Lawrason From the inland Southern Valleys region comes a lifted sauvignon with highlighted aromas of fresh dill, tarragon, peach and passion fruit and grapefruit. It is medium-bodied (13.5%), but the racy acidity gives it a lighter feel and a sense of crispness.

Manz Mineralgestein Trocken Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen, Germany
$24.95, Buyers + Cellars Wine Purveyors
Michael Godel – From the Rheinhessen’s (Eric) Manz with a dry version to celebrate the mineral stone of the region at just 8 g/L of residual sugar and acidity to match. Which means balance from a markedly racy riesling.

Loimer Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kamptal, Austria
$23.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Despite the heat of the 2022 vintage, Loimer’s classic Kamptal grüner is a model and marvel of freshness and balance, clocking in at just 12% alcohol and with lovely, ripe, white-fleshed orchard fruit flavours and classic leguminous lentil-like notes with a twist of white pepper. Buy this, and lots of it, for summer sipping.
Sara d’Amato – A textbook expression of Austrian grüner that features the refreshing nature of the variety along with characteristic notes of slivered almond and kafir lime leaf. Zesty with the faintest echo of spritz. Stylish modern and youthfully exuberant with an upbeat finish of memorable length. I’m hooked.

Planeta Terebinto Grillo 2022, Sicily, Italy
$25.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Named after the shiny-leaved shrub of the Mediterranean known as terebinto, this grillo is grown in Menfi on the western coastal side of the island of Sicily. Lime leaf, a salty minerality and a nervy disposition result in a tense yet appealing palate. Dry, energetic, tart, and zesty yet still inviting with great summer food pairing potential, from lime-infused scallop ceviche to lemon-pepper grilled swordfish.
Megha Jandhyala – This fleshy, supple and juicy Grillo from Sicily is a perfect summer wine, with its pretty floral and fruity tones. I would serve this by itself, well-chilled, or paired with light aperitifs.

Chartron Et Trébuchet Saint Véran 2022, Burgundy, France
$29.95, HEKTARS AGENCE INC.
David Lawrason Burgundy’s southernmost appellation produces slightly riper, softer chardonnays, and this is no exception. But it doesn’t spill over into soupiness or excess, indeed there is admirable linearity, acidity and minerality at the core. It is balanced on a pinhead.

Hamilton Russell Vineyard Chardonnay 2023, Walker Bay, South Africa
$64.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Bracingly youthful, this gently French-oaked chardonnay is notably firm but not austere. Features a complex herbal and botanical flavour profile with notes of chamomile, alpine underbrush, nettle, white flower and heather. Fluid and yet with tension. Its youthful austerity is loosened with some time in glass or decanter.
Megha Jandhyala – One of the most memorable wines from the latest Vintages release, this is a chardonnay of exceptional complexity and poise. I love its enchanting flavours of stone and citrus fruit finely integrated with delicate notes of oak spice. Perhaps what is most exceptional about this wine, though, is how it strikes that elusive balance between intensity and elegance, richness and firmness.

Buyer’s Guide July 6: Rosé

Skouras Cuvée Prestige Agiorgitiko/Moschofilero Rosé 2023, Peloponnese, Greece
$15.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
Sara d’Amato – A great little value here, this agioritiko and moscofilero blends is both notably zesty and floral. Dry — and it pours a bit deeper than pale — with pleasant earthy-organic-stoney undertones and a wealth of cherry and grapefruit on the palate laced with pepper and botanicals. Drink up!

Foris Vineyards Rosé Of Pinot Noir 2023, Oregon, Usa
$21.95, DB Wine & Spirits
David Lawrason This is a bright, pale rose with a classic pinot sour cherry, lavender and florals. It is medium-weight, warming, vaguely sweet but ending with a bitterness that works very well.

E. Guigal Côtes Du Rhône Rosé 2023, Rhône, France
$21.95, Vinexx
Sara d’Amato – The well-established legacy of Etienne Guigal is perhaps best expressed through the high-end Côte Rôtie trio of La Mouline, La Turque and La Landonne, but the négociant side of the business makes some cracker Côtes du Rhône such as this shade-deeper-than-pale rosé that features unexpected complexity. With just the right level of extraction resulting in a wealth of raspberry purée, cherry, grapefruit and a hint of the local underbrush, this dry and refreshing find is a summertime staple of mine.
David Lawrason This shows more colour depth than many from the south of France, except Tavel. It has a sweet nose of candied strawberry/cherry, florals and vague leesiness. It is medium weight, quite soft and smooth, very deftly handled, and balanced by some warmth.
Megha Jandhyala – Styled in the vernacular of Tavel rather than Provence, this is a colourful and expressive rosé, brimming with summer berries, watermelon and pomelo grapefruits, and accompanied by a hint of fresh herbs. I am especially drawn to its versatility in the context of food pairings. Try this with salmon poké, lightly seared fish or a vegan burger.

Buyer’s Guide July 6: Reds

Monasterio De Las Viñas Reserva Garnacha/Tempranillo/Cariñena 2019, Spain
$15.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – Always a killer value, the Monasterio 2019 Reserva delivers marvelous complexity in the price category, a savoury, sultry, herbal-spicy and dark-fruited red with impeccable balance and very good length, not to mention genuine substance and depth. Remarkable how this company can do this at the price
Megha Jandhyala – Monasterio’s 2019 reserva is immediately engaging and appealing. I love how generous and open it is, with delicious flavours of dark fruit, herbs, spice and liquorice. At this price, one would be hard pressed to find a wine with this much balance and depth and flavour!

Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$18.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
David Lawrason Wow! This sports a compelling, uplfited cabernet nose of blackcurrant/cassis, menthol, cedar and graphite. Absolutely textbook, and so much intensity. It is full bodied, dense and generous yet firm and structured.
Michael Godel – Truly exceptional value in Stellenbosch cabernet sauvignon, to no great shock from a producer that simply gets the grape and creates stellar bottles at so many price points. Crunchy, balanced and true to variety. What else could we ask for?

Marziano Abbona I Due Ricu Rosso 2020, Piedmont, Italy
$18.95, Majestic Wine Cellars
Sara d’Amato – A lively blend of pinot nero, nebbiolo and barbera, elegant and streamlined with a wealth of herbal and botanical aromatic character. Lightly grippy with a most delicate oak treatment. Finely crafted and widely appealing. High value.

D’angelo Aglianico Del Vulture 2019, Italy
$19.95, La Cantina Imports
David Lawrason D’Angelo is a prominent family-owned winery growing aglianico on the high slopes of Monte Vulture, a landmark extinct volcano in southern Italy. It is a full bodied, earthy, energized and mineral-driven red bursting with cherry fruit, all kinds of fresh herbs (lavender, oregano) and stone, plus subtle wood ageing.
Megha Jandhyala – At less than $20, this maturing, complex and beguiling Aglianico from Basilicata represents exceptional value. It is savoury, earthy, herbal, fruity and floral, all at once — a symphony of flavours really, while the finish is enduring and captivating.

Trinity Hill The Trinity Red Blend 2021, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
$22.95, Connexion Oenophilia
John Szabo – A classic Bordeaux-style cabernet-merlot blend from Hawke’s Bay — New Zealand’s top region for this style — the 2021 Trinity is a lovely, savoury, gravelly red with fresh black fruit flavours, still taut and fresh, framed by quality toasted oak and an herbal twist in the varietal family idiom. A sharp wine for the money to be sure; cellar until 2025–26.

Poderi Di Luigi Einaudi Dogliani 2022, Piedmont, Italy
$28.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – Just a lovely and spot-on dolcetto, as spicy as it is fruity, as piquant as it is fresh. A matter of steel and concrete to maximize the freshness and do next to nothing to cloud the beauty of the grape. This is indeed varietal “Villages” rosso as it was meant to be in the Langhe.

Maison Roche De Bellene Cuvée Réserve Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022, Burgundy, France
$29.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – Clean, ripe, bright, fresh and lively, Roche de Bellene is always-sharp value Bourgogne Rouge. The wine is particularly attractive in 2022 with its fleshy cherry fruit and substantial depth of flavour that hits above its class, and price, in the ever-more rarified world of Burgundy. I would buy several bottles of this top enjoy over the next 3–4 years.
Megha Jandhyala – Maison Roche de Bellene’s entry-level pinot noir is an excellent choice for those looking for an affordable yet classic Bourgogne Rouge. With notes of supple red fruit, delicate spice, and hints of savoury herbs and violets, it is full of character, yet shows the sense of self-possession one expects from pinot noir from this region. I would buy a few bottles for my cellar at this price.

Barón De Ley Gran Reserva 2017, Rioja, Spain
$33.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a concentrated and compelling Rioja, its perfume so evocative that it has the power to transport one to places both familiar and unknown. With notes of sandalwood, dried roses, toasted coconut, ripe and dried red fruit, and delicate spice, among others, it showcases how American oak can lend character and balance to a wine. I would buy a case and enjoy at leisure over the next decade.
David Lawrason This is a classic, heavily wooded Rioja long aged in American and French oak. It is fashionable to critique too much wood, but without question the practice lends lovely richness and sophistication. It is full-bodied, smooth and almost svelte, with very fine, age-softened tannins.

The World’s First Volcanic Wine Awards

This past May, John Szabo, who is a co-founder of Volcanic Wines International (VWI), collaborated with Wine & Spirits Magazine on the world’s first Volcanic Wine Awards, set to be an annual competition to recognize the top wines from volcanic wine regions around the world. After the tasting in New York City, John remarked on how fascinating it was to observe the panelists, who were not necessarily experts in volcanic wines specifically but all highly experienced tasters, converge on common ground of what constituted the most “volcanic” expressions in each flight. Click here for results, open to all, as well as reviews of the seven Chairman’s Award winners — the best of the best.

And that’s a wrap for this edition. The next Vintages release July 20 is scheduled as on online and Flagship Store release, and chances are the Flagship Stores will be open on weekends at that point. Sara and I will be at the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, and we hope to see you there.

Use these quick links for access to all of our Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take
Michael’s Mix
Megha’s Picks
Sara’s Selections
Szabo’s Smart Buys

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram for the latest WineAlign recommendations, tips and other interesting wine information.