Buyer’s Guide to Vintages January 10th Release

Annual Smart Buys; The Recipe for Value, and Crozes Hermitage in the Spotlight

By John Szabo MS, with notes from David Lawrason, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala

“Smart Buys” is the Vintages January 10 release theme, the focus of the first release of the year for as long as I can remember. There are a dozen wines at $14.95 and under, and 52 wines under $20. The average across all 87 wines in the release is $23.87 (skewed slightly up by two outlying icewines at $59.95 and $99.95). Most of the WineAlign Crü’s picks sit between $18 and $30, however, with one exception, a $14.95 red that garnered 88 points across the board, an easy 5-star value. In highlighting this wine, I share my not-so-secret “recipe for finding value,” the key business factors to look for when seeking out the best juice-to-dollar ratio. But remember that value can be found at many price points; we believe that all our picks offer favourable quality-price ratios, especially one very rare quintuple alignment in this release — also a pair of triples, and a handful of doubles. Read on for the highlights.

Elsewhere, Crozes-Hermitage, the northern Rhône’s largest appellation, is in the Wine Thieves’ spotlight, the podcast hosted by Sara and me. It’s our first new episode in two years, and we’re excited to be back with fresh interviews with leading figures of the wine world, in this case Daphné Chave and David Combier. Click through to listen.

The Rhône Valley (https://www.vins-rhone-tourisme.fr/)

The Recipe for Value

My top “smart buy” comes from a region long regarded as a source of excellent value wines, the kind you’ll always find on a Parisien bistro list (and everywhere else): the southern Rhône. What makes the region such a hotbed for value? Is not such a complicated equation at the end of the day. The region simply enjoys many of what I consider to be the key structural factors to look for when searching for value in the world of wine. These are:

1. Production volume. With over 70,000 hectares planted, the southern Rhône is France’s second largest region, after Bordeaux, which makes it one of the largest appellations in the world.

• Clement weather. The southern Rhône enjoys the textbook definition of a Mediterranean climate, ideal for growing grapes. Vineyards are often de facto organic, even if not certified. Large crops can be regularly ripened to produce rich, smooth reds, high-octane rosés and generously proportioned, satisfying whites at low cost.

• Multi-generational, family-run estates. This is key. It’s estimated that there are a little more than 1,800 private wine-growing properties across the Rhône valley, the majority family owned and operated, often for more than a generation. These estates have, for the most part, already paid off their infrastructure and real-estate debts. Thus, the “cost of goods sold” comes down to annual farming and winemaking costs, plus some marketing budget. Essentially, you’re paying for the juice and the bottle it comes in. This is a huge advantage over start-ups that have to amortize the costs of land acquisition, equipment, infrastructure and the building up of markets in the price of a bottle of wine. In this case, you’re paying for far more than just for the juice — you’re also paying off someone’s debts.

I’d also add cooperatives to the category of value producers, of which the Rhône has over 100, as well as négociants (50-plus) who purchase grapes and/or wine, to bottle and sell. In both cases, there’s almost always an economy of scale that allows for minimizing the costs of goods sold and fully established winemaking infrastructure.

With these points in mind, it’s hardly surprising that the Lavau Family is able to deliver us a delicious red at under $15: Lavau 2024 Côtes du Rhône ($14.95). The story of the Lavau family and wine begins in Saint-Émilion in the 19th century, before continuing in Tunisia where René Lavau and his son transformed a small estate of vines and orange trees into the country’s biggest wine producer. Jean-Guy Lavau (René’s grandson) and his wife Anne-Marie returned to France in the 1960s and created Maison Lavau in 1965 in the village of Sablet. Some 30 years later, Frédéric and Benoît Lavau joined the family winery, and today Maison Lavau owns 140 hectares of vineyards and has partnerships with some 350 winegrowers across virtually every appellation in the southern Rhône.

David appreciates the wine’s “ample flavour and refreshment,” while Michael cuts to the chase, describing it as “stupidly affordable Côtes du Rhône.” There’s nothing special or pretentious here, just plump, highly drinkable red wine for immediate enjoyment, a sheer pleasure to quaff, such as everyone needs from time to time.

Another region that boasts many of the value factors is Chile’s Central Valley, and especially the Maule valley with its old, dry-farmed vineyards. Good weather, inexpensive land, and generational farmers add up to value. And here you can also add lower cost of living into the value equation, meaning lower wages (without exploitation) and thus a lower cost of production.

Torontonian Derek Mossman-Knapp spied the potential in Chile when he established the Garage Wine Co. in 2001 with partner Pilar Miranda, literally in his garage. “We revive old vineyards in marginalized Chilean communities to make coveted wines,” says Derek. “The wines are not made to be expensive per se, but they are found on the higher shelves — they need to command a price that allows for proper farming. What we have discovered is that the long-term practices of regenerative farming not only make for better fruit and thus more flavourful wine, but that such a business can become a force for financial, community and environmental good.”

But I’d hardly consider the Garage Old Vine Field Blend($24.95) to be a particularly high-shelf wine, rather a superb value, one which sings out its origins loudly. And if it supports good farming practices and a local community, so much the better. The wine is a “memorable expression of place,” according to Sara; while David describes it as “undisputably Chilean with that lifted almost spearminty/menthol greenness.” All five of the WineAlign critics had this on their list of recommendations, a rare occurrence indeed.

Other multi-aligned wines include Closerie Des Alisiers Petit Chablis 2023 ($29.95) — “downright proper and stony” (Michael); Tawse Quarry Road Pinot Noir 2023 ($35.95) — “savoir-faire dovetails with authentic sense of place” (Megha); and Prosper Maufoux’s Mâcon-Villages 2023 ($20.95)— “a serious white Burgundy with more rigidity and structure than many from warmer Macon” (David).

See buyer’s Guide below for all the picks.

Wine Thieves: Crozes Hermitage

It’s syrah-o’clock somewhere, and the Wine Thieves are back, exploring Northern Rhône’s largest appellation, Crozes-Hermitage — a tale of two distinct terroirs. To the north, steep granitic slopes yield structured, mineral-driven syrah, while the flatter, warmer southern plains produce fruit-forward, approachable styles. Joining us from Tain-l’Hermitage are rising “new generation” winemakers Daphné Chave of Domaine Yann Chave and David Combier of Domaine Combier, both carrying forward their family legacies while shaping the future of the region. We’ll dive into how their experiences abroad influence their winemaking, how syrah expresses the diversity of its terroir, the challenges facing the variety today, and the rising profile of Northern Rhône whites, marsanne and roussanne. Pour a glass of Crozes-Hermitage and join us for this Wine Thieves reboot episode! Listen to the episode.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages January 10: White & Sparkling

Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling 2023, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, John Howard Cellars of Distinction
Michael Godel – Acidity strides side by side with high-quality fruit. A truly balanced riesling and because it activates a near dry style so beautifully there is great potential from Canadian varietal gravitas.

Rapaura Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Marlborough, New Zealand
$19.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – This is very bright, clean, sleek and almost delicate with a lifted nose of tropical pineapple/passion fruit, lemon-lime citrus, chive and fresh dill. It is both lively and elegant, with a bit of youthful spritz. Nicely focused and balanced.

Kutjevo Grasevina 2024, Croatia
$19.95, Croatia Unpacked
John Szabo – Fresh, lively, fruity, hugely appealing example of grasevina (welschriesling) from inland Croatia, all apple and pear on the palate with a squeeze of lemon. I like the way this draws saliva and brings you back for another sip. Sharp value.

Prosper Maufoux Mâcon Villages 2023, Burgundy, France
$20.95, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – Nuanced and elegant, but not quite discreet, this well-crafted Mâcon-Villages comes from an appellation often better known for value than for star turns, yet it delivers more than most. Pure and clean, with finely integrated, whisper-soft oak spice. Fruit leads the palate, supported by notes of creamy butter, light and airy lees, and a hint of florality. The acidity is present and refreshing without ever turning sharp, representative of its southernly origins.
David Lawrason – Great value in a serious white Burgundy with more rigidity and structure than many from warmer Macon.  Expect classic, complex and well-integrated aromas fruit, spice and some minerality with a flinty/reductive seam. Good depth as well.

Bachelder L’ardoise Niagara Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$25.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
Michael Godel – L’Ardoise is a clean, pure and representative chardonnay intent on helping to unearth what matters most, that being soil and place. Just enough depth to keep us posing new questions, to travel further and begin to discover the single terroir bottles made by Mr. Bachelder.

Closerie Des Alisiers Petit Chablis 2023, Burgundy, France
$29.95, Connexion Oenophilia
Michael Godel – Downright proper and stony, of crisp bites of chardonnay here from a Petit Chablis to tell us just how much better and more important this level of appellation has become.
Sara d’Amato – This Petit Chablis punches above its weight, true to style, with gentle, creamy lees rounding the edges. Bright and well-defined, it’s both crisp and satisfyingly structured, with just the right amount of body. A value that hits the mark — no relativity required.
Megha Jandhyala – Crisp and stony, with a glassy, refined texture, this is quality Petit Chablis. I would buy a few bottles of this wine for my bar, given its classic flavour profile and reasonable price.

Volta Estate Winery Chardonnay Amphora Familia Ramirez Vineyard 2023, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Volta Estate Winery
John Szabo – Full disclosure: Volta Estate is my neighbour in Prince Edward County, which means that I know how meticulously estate manage Edgar Ramirez farms. This inaugural bottling under the Volta name is actually from his family vineyard in nearby Hillier, the source of excellent chardonnay for many years now (the fruit was sold to other wineries in the past, though will now be exclusive to Volta). It features a golden colour and lovely aromatics, not at all oxidized but appealingly waxy, and with the amphora ageing, finds a new and distinct, high-quality voice. It’s an exciting and fine addition to the county repertoire of the variety, and sharply priced as such.

Bellermann Brut Tradition Champagne, Champagne, France
$48.95, AMV-Whiz Trading Ltd.
Sara d’Amato – Celebration needs no calendar, and fizz knows no off-season. In the glass, this well-priced Champagne more than meets expectations: gentle layers of autolysis with a dash of gingery pep. It may not chase great complexity, but it’s lively, candid and true to type.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages January 10: Red

Lavau Côtes Du Rhône 2024, Rhône, France
$14.95, Connexion Oenophilia
John Szabo – Easily my top “smart buy” red wine, a simple but satisfying, grapey and immediate, juicy and ripe southern Rhône red, a sheer pleasure to quaff. Nothing special or pretentious here, just plump, highly drinkable red wine for immediate enjoyment.

Tombacco Aglianico Del Beneventano 2024, Campania, Italy
$17.95, Stem Wine Group Inc.
Michael Godel – Aglianico from Benevento, the place of Trajan’s Arch, southern Campania, where vineyard space is mainly shared with the local Falanghina. Here flies a juicy, juicy version and one without distraction or winemaking interference. Truly getable at a very good price.
David Lawrason – This sports an impressive, red cherry, red plum nose with florals, anise, leather and wood spice. It captures the energy and combustion of this hearty grape, with its 14% alcohol and firm acidity, but most impressive is how aglianco’s strong tannins have been tamed in such a young wine.

Baron De Philippe De Rothschild Escudo Rojo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, Maipo Valley, Chile
$17.95, Charton Hobbs
Megha Jandhyala – This is a typical Chilean cabernet sauvignon, overflowing with lush dark fruit, herbs and spice. It is especially approachable, given its broad appeal and reasonable price.

La Carraia Tizzonero 2020, Umbria, Italy
$23.95, Rogers & Company
John Szabo – I’d expect to pay more for an IGP of this quality from a neighbouring region, impressive as the depth and concentration are in this notably dark-coloured version of sangiovese (with other undisclosed indigenous varieties) from the volcanic corner of Umbria south of Orvieto. It’s like a thick velvet swath of black cherry and black berry fruit, dark spices and a well-integrated dose of spicy oak.

Garage Old Vine Field Blend, Maule Valley, Chile
$24.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – Canadian winemaker Derek Mossman Knapp’s red is blended in a unique style, from several vintages with the same wines aged 18 months to two years. Non-vintage and no matter because it drinks effortlessly by virtue of a winemaker’s wisdom utilizing old plant material.
Sara d’Amato – This juicy old-vine field blend draws from small parcels of regeneratively farmed vineyards, fermented with ambient yeasts for a naturally expressive, low-intervention style. Brimming with personality and a hint of bitterness, it’s full-bodied without heaviness, and offers a memorable expression of place. 
David Lawrason – This is a blend of undisclosed varieties, but is undisputably Chilean with that lifted, almost spearminty/menthol, greenness. Fruit is in the blackcurrant and cranberry realms, with some pepper. It is medium-full bodied, tart, juicy and energized.
Megha Jandhyala – This old-vine field blend from Chile is full of character and flavour, with an unaffected, disarming charm. Intriguingly, it is a blend not just of undisclosed varieties but also vintages, made using a solera system — of sherry fame. At less than $25, this unusual wine is worth exploring.
John Szabo – Not much more to add to the notes on this rare, quintuple-align Chilean red, other than buy it. Just don’t expect sleek and polished; rather raw, unbridled, authentic flavours. Drink over the next 2 to 3 years; it’ll probably last longer, but why wait for the beauty to fade?

Cecchi Riserva Di Famiglia Chianti Classico 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$24.95, Charton Hobbs
Megha Jandhyala – Layered and graceful, this Chianti Classico has reached optimal maturity. It is delightfully fruity and herbal, showcasing a sense of freshness alongside delicate and engaging nuances of age.

Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2020, New Zealand
$13.95, 375ml Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – I expected this five-year-old half bottle to dispense a very mature orangey, tiring pinot, but it is maintaining excellent with pretty and quite sophisticated aromas of cherry, red rose, fine spice and dried pine needle. It is light to mid weight, quite elegant and refined with firm acidity and tannin.

Fielding Cabernet Franc 2023, Ontario, Canada
$26.15, Epic Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – This Platinum Award winner at the National Wine Awards has that overall Fielding amiability that wins so many over. It is not a classical wine in the Euro mold, but it is very accurately bright-eyed Niagara cabernet franc, with lifted raspberry, fresh herbs and well-metered oak. It is medium-full bodied, open knit, fresh and vibrant, but manages some elegance at the same time.

Podere Montale Montecucco Sangiovese 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$29.95, Epic Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – The area is Seggiano, località Podere Montale just north of Castel del Piano on the north slope of Monte Amiata. A sangiovese from a more Mediterranean climate than that of the higher reaches. Darker fruit, a unique expression with good presence, silken and gliding across the palate. Ready to drink.

Tawse Quarry Road Pinot Noir 2023, Ontario, Canada
$35.95, Tawse
Sara d’Amato – Sporting a fresh new label, this Quarry Road pinot noir from Tawse, planted high on Vinemount Ridge, a quality-yielding site for this variety, is rich in cherry, plum, and earth, with crisp, juicy length — for those of you who want to drink less but better as their resolution.
Megha Jandhyala – With incandescent flavours of red fruit and herbs, and delicate filaments of earth and spice, this silky-firm pinot noir is captivating. Here, savoir-faire dovetails with authentic sense of place.
John Szabo – New label, but classic old Quarry Road styling on this 2023 vintage, a particularly stony and chalky wine in the vineyard idiom, always properly tense and restrained. This should come together beautifully in time; reminds me of red Chassagne, a red wine from a white terroir. Try in 2028.

Maison Ginestet Grand Vin De Margaux 2023, Bordeaux, France
$45.95, Charton Hobbs
Sara d’Amato – Unlike most Bordelaise wines, the label flaunts the place, not the Château, because this Margaux comes from a négociant who works with multiple growing partners. An appellation often characterized as “elegantly floral,” this wine fits the bill. Youthfully firm yet with sumptuous power, it can be drunk now for those who are impatient or cellared for another 3 to 4 years for more ease and charm.

That’s all for this report, see you ’round the next bottle. 

 John Szabo, MS

Use these quick links for access to all of our January 10th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – January 10th
Lawrason’s Take – January 10th
Michael’s Mix – January 10th
Sara’s Selections – January 10th
Megha’s Picks – January 10th

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