Buyer’s Guide to VINTAGES September 18th Release

John Szabo’s VINTAGES Review September 18th: Ontario

** Please note: As all WineAlign staff and writers will be in BC at the 2021 National Wine Awards of Canada over the next two weeks, we will be unable to taste the wines from the October 2nd VINTAGES release. We will be back for the October 16th Release **

By John Szabo, with reviews from David Lawrason, Sara d’Amato and Michael Godel

Debate rages among winemakers, commentators and consumers over which should be Ontario’s flagship white variety: riesling or chardonnay. Both perform admirably in the soils and climate of southern Ontario, from the value to the premium end of the spectrum, and in a wide range of styles. They’re both among Ontario’s most sustainable varieties in the fullest sense of the term, and, well, the best ones are flat out delicious. The VINTAGES September 18th release, with a feature on Ontario wines, includes two highly compelling examples that add weight to the riesling side of the scale, both rated comfortably into the 90s by all of us here at WineAlign. For additional context, listen to Sara’s and my deep dive into Ontario Riesling and Chardonnay in two separate episodes of our Wine Thieves podcast, in which we get straight to the heart of the matter with some of Canada’s finest practitioners of each grape ( and often both grapes). In the end, it’s ok not to choose. Also read on for a brief history of Ontario riesling. From the rest of the release, the crü has found plenty to recommend in both the classic genre – Barolo, Bordeaux, Chablis, Rhône Valley, Napa – to terrific value from the Corbières, to exciting, revolutionary styles from high-elevation Mendoza and coastal Chile.

Join Sara and John for the Pays d’Oc Cocktail Hour. Register now.

Riesling: A Natural Fit

Ontario’s cool-climate wine growing regions enjoy special status as some of the few areas outside of northern Europe where Riesling could be called a signature grape variety. Riesling makes up 15% of all VQA Ontario production by volume, second only to chardonnay, and the Niagara Peninsula is home to vineyards that are now over 40 years old, among the oldest in the province.

It’s perfectly logical that riesling would have been among the first vinifera varieties to be considered for planting in Ontario in the early 1970s, when the modern industry as we know it started to grow. As native labrusca grapes lost favour and more and more eyes turned to Europe for inspiration, riesling’s origins in Germany, also a decidedly cool area that paralleled to some extent the conditions in Ontario, sparked strong belief that the variety could perform well, and importantly, survive Canadian winters.

According to the Penachettis of Cave Spring Vineyard, Jack Shoemaker planted some of the first riesling vines in Ontario in the mid-70s. The Shoemaker Vineyard was a 10-acre site planted to a myriad of hybrid and vinifera varieties, including chardonnay planted in 1974 and Riesling in 1975, adjacent to Cave Spring’s original 1974 plantings to the east on the Beamsville Bench bordering with today’s Malivoire estate vineyard. Cave Spring purchased the Shoemaker vineyard in the late 1990s and today often use that heirloom Riesling parcel for their top-end CSV cuvée.

“The clonal material of that Riesling is unknown”, says Tom Penachetti of the Shoemaker plantings. “Though we assume it to have of Geisenheim origin (likely 239). It was definitely not Weis 21 as the clone was not yet available in 1975.”

The Clonal Mystery

And here’s where one of the enduring Niagara insiders’ mysteries originates. Riesling plantings took off in the late-1970s and early 1980s with the arrival of the so-called Weis clone riesling 21, which today accounts for the majority of riesling vineyards in Ontario. The Weiss family are nursery operators and winegrowers in Germany’s Mosel region, and recognized the potential for Riesling in Ontario early on, as well as for a new export market for their vines. Today the clone is widely known in Ontario as “21B”; Vinetech, the major local supplier of grapevines to the Ontario wine industry, lists “Riesling 21B as a product. Yet the clone was originally registered by the Weis family as Riesling clone Weis 21. Without the ‘B’, according to Penachetti, who is married to Anne Weis, daughter of Hermann Weis and sister of Nik, current generation at the helm of the St. Urbans’s Hof winery. “Neither Anne nor Nik know why the B came to be added”.

Riesling Without a “B”

Tom’s older brother Len Penechetti, president of Cave Spring Vineyard, “loosely recalls that the plant tags in the early days may have had a B on them. Perhaps it was a marking by Agriculture Canada for separating lots within a shipment somehow. Regardless, the clone is and always was registered as Weis 21. To be honest I thought it was simply 21 and not Weis 21; plenty of confusion to go around!”, says Tom.

In any case, feel free to correct Ontario winemakers if they add “B” to the riesling discussion. But more importantly, expect more tightly wound citrus fruit and wet stone character from riesling made with the Weis clone, relative to the riper, more stone fruit character of the Geisenheim or the Alsace clone 49, also planted in Ontario. The German connection also explains the local tendency to model after the Germanic style of riesling, which is to say low alcohol, high acid wines with a pinch of residual sugar to balance. Yet the majority of producers have been moving to drier and drier styles, as the vines age, flavour concentration grows, climate warms and tastes change.

One of the early local proponents of the Weis clone was a gentleman by the name of Lloyd Carmichael, who was the grower liaison in the late ‘70s for now-defunct Jordan Wines, one of Ontario’s largest wineries at the time and to whom the Penachettis sold their fruit in the early days. Carmichael was also the owner of the original 13th Street vineyard, located on 13th Street Louth, just north of Fourth Ave. in today’s Creek Shores sub-appellation. He encouraged growers with appropriate sites to plant Riesling and specifically the Weis clone, as it had just come available through Hermann Weis’ agent, Dieter Gutler. Vineland Estates and Marian Hill vineyards were developed between 1979 and 1981 in partnership with German investors affiliated with Hermann, which is the origin of Vineland’s celebrated St. Urban’s riesling vineyard, named for Hermann’s Mosel property back in Germany, from where the Weis clone originates. Gutler, for his part, purchased and planted the Kew vineyard, including the Weis clone that he represented, during the same period. **

The 1976/77 importations of the Weis 21 clone also ended up at the vineyard of Paul Stefanik, who had a 10-acre vineyard on the Beamsville Bench very close to the Kew site at the corner of RR 81 and Aberdeen Road, which is the eastern urban boundary of Beamsville. Stefanik was one of the early vinifera pioneers and his vineyard was highly praised by Carmichael. Cave Spring purchased riesling and other grapes from Stefanik in the early vintages of winery. Ken Dyck, of the Dyck family who founded Cattail Creek in Niagara-on-the-Lake, also planted small parcels of Weis riesling in 1976 or 1977.

The legacy of many of these original sites, and many since discovered, make up a big part of the Ontario riesling story, and give rise to some of the province’s top examples. Vines that have spent forty years in the same spot naturally adapt to their particular conditions, resulting in more naturally balanced wines, with greater depth and concentration. For more on the sub-regional differences in wine styles within the Niagara Peninsula, listen to Wine Thieves episode 42: VQA Ontario Riesling. And be sure to use the WineAlign wine search function to find the best rieslings currently on offer.

** Correction: an earlier version of this article incorrectly stated that Dieter Gutler operated “Kew vineyard for the original German investors”. A WineAlign reader pointed out this correction: “I worked in the Kew vineyard in 1981 before I flew to Germany to study viticulture & Oenology in Geisenheim. Just a small point that was mentioned: Gutler really did not operate for German investors as it was his & his wife’s Ingrid’s property. In googling Dieter I saw that Ingrid his wife passed away 20th March 2021. In the obit it says: “Ingrid and Dieter owned and operated Kew Vineyards in Beamsville for over 20 years.” – Arthur

Vintages Buyer’s Guide September 18th: Ontario wines

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2017, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
$38.95, Stratus Vineyards
Michael Godel – The succulence in the acids over top juicy, juicy fruit and this great entanglement is majestic and dignified. My goodness Charles, I think you’ve done it.
John Szabo – Evolving now, Baker’s Picone vineyard riesling has shifted into a world of petrol products, dried and caramelized fruit flavours, citrus and orchard, apple and pear, dried mint and lemon zest. The palate remains extremely well balanced, with a pinch of sugar balanced by firm-ripe acids, growing more gentle and approachable with age. Genuine intensity and length are on offer.

Two Sisters Riesling 2018, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario
$35.00, Two Sisters Vineyards
John Szabo – Made with fruit from the Foxcroft Vineyard as well as the Lenko Farm, this Escarpment riesling displays the regional fresh pear signature with an exotic lime and linden blossom note, very inviting indeed. The palate is beautifully balanced and succulent, surprisingly rich and mouth filling at just 10% alcohol declared, though also fleshed out by a pinch of residual sugar. Acids and some dissolved carbon dioxide further ratchet up the tension. A top flight example, drinking now but capable of holding late into the decade no doubt.
Michael Godel – While energy and drive are clearly evident and consistent with 2017 there too is an indication of balance from the word riesling. Something vaporous, lit and honeyed this way comes.

Leaning Post Pinot Noir 2019, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
$31.95, Leaning Post Wines
Sara d’Amato – A richly textured pinot noir with a great deal of depth from a specialist in the variety. Sourced from four vineyards across Niagara in the Beamsville Bench, Lincoln Lakeshore and St. David’s Bench sub-appellations. Gracefully maturing with delicate acidity and appealing notes of red flower and iron. Savour slowly.
Michael Godel – Like a Hautes Côtes or a “Bourgogne-Plus” really, ostensibly, allegedly and essentially. Old vines, new vines and those suspected of being young and also wise, all above board and beyond.

Closson Chase Closson Chase Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Prince Edward County, Ontario
$36.00, Closson Chase Vineyards Inc.
Sara d’Amato – There is nothing unassuming about this attractive pinot noir sourced from Closson Chase’s home vineyard. Notes of cherries and rhubarb can be discerned before your nose hits the glass. A well-balanced, savory-tart-fruity style with silky tannins that is drinking exceptionally well right now.

Rest of the World White & Rosé

Domaine Bègue-Mathiot Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2017, Burgundy, France
$33.95, Mondo Vino
John Szabo – Classically-styled Chablis 1er cru here, complete with plenty of wet stone and briny oyster liquor flavours, saline, salty acids and gently lactic, lemon citrus flavours. Tightly wound, with potential to continue to improve over the next 6-8 years.

Matetic Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc 2019, San Antonio Valley, Chile
$15.95, H.H.D. Imports
David Lawrason – Huge value, offering all kinds of depth and complexity for $16. It is from ambitious, biodynamic estate in coastal San Antonio that has built in terrific energy and complexity in a riper style with tropical fruit, herbaceous and lime/grapefruit notes.

Château Thieuley Entre-Deux-Mers 2019, Bordeaux, France
$18.95, Dbino Inc.
Sara d’Amato – The often-overlooked Entre Deux Mers region boasts some top values, especially when it comes to white blends. This assemblage of semillon and sauvignon blanc is bright and salty and free of any apparent oak. Featuring a wealth of floral, citrus and botanical spice on the memorable nose.
Michael Godel – Very fall aromas, fresh and crisp. No step down with palate cleansing flavours just as stirring. Terrific intermezzo white, for sipping idly and especially alongside fresh water fish.
David Lawrason – This is a very elegant, flavourful white Bordeaux combining sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle. It has classic lemon-lime, caper, a touch of jalapeno and wet stone. It is medium bodied, crisp yet elegant with excellent flavour. Great purity and precision here.

Château Mont-Redon Réserve Blanc 2019, Rhone Valley, France
$17.95, Family Wine Merchants
Sara d’Amato – This estate-grown, sustainably produced Côtes du Rhône blend is made by the largest landowner in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Made from a traditional blend of grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc, roussanne and picpoul. Curiously leesy and taught almost like a Chablis with delightful vibrancy and minerality.
John Szabo – Clean, fresh, ripe, unoaked white Rhône blend here from the reliable Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate of Mont-Redon, showing plenty of ripe, white-fleshed orchard fruit, honey and hay, chamomile and green melon, attractive and inviting. A very tasty wine for the money all in all; drink or hold short term.
David Lawrason – This is a classy, tidy and understated white Rhone from a top producer based in Chateaunneuf-du-Pape. The nose is typically soft with subtle honeysuckle, lemon blossom and apricot/cantaloupe fruit. It is medium bodied, nicely rounded, balanced and fresh.

Château Paradis Terre Des Anges Rosé 2020, Coteaux D’Aix-En-Provence, France
$27.95, Wilson Wine & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – We may be closing in on fall but that doesn’t mean you need to give up rosé. This charmer from Château Paradis isn’t inexpensive but offers a little more depth and colour than you might expect from a Provençal rosé.
John Szabo – – In the far north of the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellation, the wines of Paradis are made under the guidance of respected Rhône Valley oenologists Michel Tardieu and Philippe Cambie This top cuvée is bone dry, crisp and firm, succulent and tart, more angular than the wines made closer to the coast, with substantial flavour intensity and length. Quite compelling in the final analysis. Drink or hold for a year or two. Syrah (70%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Rolle (10%).

Castelnau De Suduiraut 2006, Second Wine Of Château Suduiraut, Bordeaux, France
$23.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – Sauternes is a rare enough wine to see on LCBO shelves, and mature examples even more rare, so fans of the style should take advantage while they can. It’s a lovely, toasty, biscuity, honeyed and quince-flavoured wine, exotic and apricot-driven, complex and rich, very much in the classic register. The palate is plush and sweet without excess, balanced with crisp acids, while the finish extends out on crème caramel flavours. Drink or continue to hold into the late-’20s.

Rest of the World Reds

Gen Del Alma Gene Tinto 2018, Uco Valley, Argentina
$21.95, The Case for Wine
David Lawrason – From a small winery founded in 2012 in high altitude Tupungato, this a sleek, smooth and delicious blend based on malbec. Great mulberry, florals and other complex aromatics. It is medium-full bodied, smooth and I like energy here.

Girard Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Napa Valley, California
$44.95, Azureau Wine Agency
John Szabo – Another solid value wine from Girard, featuring genuine cabernet grit and herbal flavours, alongside ripe black fruit and gentle wood spice. The palate is solidly constructed with an equal mix of acids and ripe tannins, while length and depth are very good. In the realm of Napa cabernet, this is attractively positioned – restaurants should be listing this sort of value proposition.

Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Sonoma County, California
$69.95, Mark Anthony Group
Sara d’Amato – Clean and concise, this cabernet sauvignon has been elegantly constructed with longevity in mind. Featuring a layered degree of complexity with taught black fruit, a dusting of cocoa, a restrained degree of smoky oak and ripe, mouthfilling tannins. The concentration is intense so best to wait another 2 years for best expression.

Laurent Perrachon Roche Bleue Juliénas 2019, Beaujolais, France
$19.95, Heritage Cellars
David Lawrason – A pretty and solid gamay from one of the best “cru” villages in the northern part of Beaujolais. Classic floral, rose-like aromas join the slightly candied cherry/plummy fruit. It is medium weight, fairly rich and rounded with firm acidity and minerality crossing the finish.

Domaine La Rougeante Corbieres 2016, Languedoc, France
$18.95, Connexion Oenophilia
Michael Godel – Does not get much bigger, meatier or more pronounced in Corbières at the price. Serious stuff with ample structure and immediate gratification provided some air time is duly given.
David Lawrason – This is a blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre with intriguing, wild, complex aromas of cassis, rosemary, tarry smoke, stone and a certain meatiness I get from mourvedre. The aromas curiously remind me of many Chilean wines. It is medium weight, firm and elegant.

La Vie D’arnaud Corbières 2017, Languedoc, France
$13.95, Connexion Oenophilia
John Szabo – A wild and swarthy, rustic but characterful Corbières at a highly attractive price. It has all of the licorice spice and dark fruit expected of wines from this corner of southern France, but with unexpected depth and complexity. A terrific BBQ or roast-friendly red, which at this price can be your fall/winter house wine.

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Dell’Annunziata Barolo 2015, Piedmont, Italy
$56.95, Vin Vino Wine Merchants Inc.
John Szabo – Settimo owns 3.5 hectares within this 30ha cru in La Morra, in the family since the 1940s, forming an amphitheatre with ideal south-southwest exposure in the hamlet of Annunziata. The 2015 shows a typically pale garnet colour and open, perfumed and spicy, red fruit-scented nose in the more traditional style, and very classically La Morra in style. The palate shows ripe, dusty tannins in a delicate expression overall, with very good length. Cellar this into the ‘30s.

Salcheto Riserva Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2015, Tuscany, Italy
$39.95, Buyers & Cellars Wine Purveyors Inc.
John Szabo – Evolving nicely at this stage, Salcheto’s Vino Nobile Riserva delivers an ample nose-full of ripe, lightly dried red fruit but especially resinous herbal-spice, dried flowers and pot pourri, the ensemble complex and attractive. The palate still shows considerable structure and extract, with firm, dusty tannins and pronounced but ripe acids, and impressively long finish. A fine bottle of wine all in all, and that Salcheto is certified organic and sustainable is an added bonus.
Michael Godel – It was important to let this rest, allow the formidable local tannins to resolve and bring this to an optimum place. Yes it is 2015, a vintage of generosity and ease but Nobile is Nobile and buyers are better off for the aging with thanks to an agreement between three levels of sellers.
David Lawrason – Here’s a lovely, gentle charming, fairly intense sangiovese just hitting prime time and offering all kinds of complex, almost enchanting aromas – too many to list here. It is light to mid-weight, very smooth and well balanced with warmth, fine tannin and excellent length. Ready to roll.

That’s all for this report. See you around the next bottle. Please note that reviews of the subsequent Oct 2nd release will be delayed by about a week as our entire team heads west to judge the National Wine Awards of Canada in Penticton. The office will be closed September 28th to Oct 11th.