Buyers Guide to Vintages September 12th Release
“All in On Ontario Wine?” And a New VQA Sparkler Called Fracette
By David Lawrason with notes from Megha Jandhyala and Sara d’Amato
The first Vintages release of September naturally coincides with the beginning of harvest at Ontario wineries. The current issue of the Vintages release magazine is headlined All in for Ontario Wine. An LCBO media campaign airing now uses the same slogan. And of course we all know this an opportune political moment to be backing local, Ontario and Canada. Which is all great, but I have to ask the LCBO, How all in is all in?
Of the 82 products in this Vintages release, 20 are local. Isn’t that more like 25% in? What if Vintages did a 100% Ontario release? Now would have been the moment, but the LCBO operates on months-out schedules of acquisition, shipping, processing, and marketing. Who would have known a year ago that Trump would be renaming Lake Ontario here in September 2026? Only Trump himself perhaps.
One cannot blame the LCBO for being globally focused, given its former mandate for 75 years to be all things to all people as the sole retailer of wine. But in an opening retail market that includes supermarkets, convenience stores, and bottle-shop specialists, it can be argued that the LCBO — as a government agency — should be even more focused on Ontario wine than it is. As in planning now for a 100% Ontario release in September 2027.
To its credit, Vintages has quietly been accommodating more Ontario wine than you might expect. It is not widely known that Ontario wineries can direct ship to certain LCBO stores without going through a listing process. My local store at Bloor and Royal York in Toronto has a large selection of premium Ontario wines that are shipped direct. The store’s product consultant simply has to pick up the phone and call the winery.
And there are other ways to buy Ontario as well. Most Ontario wineries are shipping direct to consumer (DTC) throughout the province and beyond, and if you live in the GTHA you can also drive to either Niagara or Prince Edward County within about two or three hours to taste, buy and fill your trunk. What a great outing — sort of like apple picking with the kids. There is no longer any excuse for not buying Ontario.
And if you do go to wine country this month you will land in the middle of harvest. It’s been a very wet summer in Niagara after biblical rainfalls in July and August, and there is concern about rot in the vineyard. With about three to four weeks of harvest remaining (we hope), I am not going to prognosticate yet on the quality of the grapes that do make it into the tanks, but there have been more optimistic vintages.
New Sparkling VQA Fracette
A subtext of this release is a larger selection of sparkling wines, several from Ontario. This is partially driven by the introduction of a new category of sparkling wine category called Fracette. Developed in Ontario and VQA-sanctioned, it tweaks the production process by using icewine as the catalyst for the second fermentation. The French call this the liqueur d’expedition, a sugar-base mixed with yeast, but in the case of Fracette the sugar is icewine. It is added to the base wine and off goes that second fermentation to create the bubbles captured inside the bottle, or a pressurized tank. The process was created by Kew Vineyard (owned by Arterra Wines Canada), but an Inniskillin Fracette has also been produced, by Arterra. And I assume other wineries will be joining in.
In tasting Fracette for the first time I was curious to see if I could readily ascertain any difference due to the use of icewine. One instinctively assumes the wine might be sweeter but that is false logic because the icewine sugars are fermented out, leaving the wine dry. In the Kew Vineyard Fracette I noticed a somewhat tropical fruit flavour that made me think of vidal icewine, which was used as the liqueur, but the wine was dry, and its fruitiness could simply be the result of the grapes used. At any rate, it was very well balanced, pleasant and enjoyable, if not highly complex.
Two other traditional method Kew Vineyard wines are also presented on the release and are recommended below. Since being purchased by Arterra in 2023, the tiny, hidden-away but absolutely charming Kew Vineyard, which has some of the oldest vines on the Beamsville Bench, has come out of the shadows. Sparkling wine is its forte, and the prices are excellent. It has an adorable tasting room, and a picnic on its treed lawn beside the vineyard is idyllic.
So on to our recommendations for this release, which naturally contain some Ontario picks, but a few other pleasant surprises as well, with a fine international selection of mid-priced whites. Both John and Michael were travelling last week so the number of selections is down a bit. Please read on with our picks arranged in ascending price order.
Buyer’s Guide Vintages September 12: Sparkling Wines
Kew Barrel Aged Blanc De Blanc 2019, Ontario, Canada
$32.95, Arterra Wines Canada
Megha Jandhyala – This blanc de blancs was barrel aged for five months before it underwent a secondary fermentation in bottle and was subsequently aged on its lees for five years. The result is a sparkling wine of complexity, richness, and elegance.
David Lawrason – There is a lovely core of classic apple/pear chardonnay fruit in the blanc de blancs that stays focused nose to finish. There are also creamy, almond and pastry aromas providing complexity. It is light to mid-weight, soft yet lively, with fine acidity and alcohol balance. Excellent length.
Sara d’Amato – A top-value sparkler, Kew Blanc de Blancs draws from some very old chardonnay vines, with a short spell in barrel adding extra intrigue. Generously aromatic, with toasted pine nut, almond, and lees-driven complexity, it delivers fine, voluminous mousse and impressive poise. Serious bubbles, very unserious price.
Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut Rosé Sparkling 2022, Nova Scotia, Canada
$48.95, The Living Vine
Sara d’Amato – A seriously pretty rosé sparkler, pale salmon-pink and notably complex. Low dosage gives it a crisp snap, while 22 months on the lees bring depth and finesse. Half pinot noir and half pinot meunier. Nervy without austerity; and an alarming propensity to disappear.
David Lawrason – This very pale brassy pink rosé shows a lifted and complex nose of wild strawberry and crab apple with mild bakery notes of scone or phyllo pastry. It is lightweight at 12% alcohol, with classic, riveting Nova Scotia acidity and a whisper of sweetness. Flavour intensity and length are impressive.
Fukuju Umeshu Plum Sparkling Sake, Japan, World
$9.95, Amethyst Wine Agency Inc.
David Lawrason – Something new to open any evening, this is a lovely, fresh, charming and slightly petillant sake with a pretty nose of red plum, florals, and warmed rice. It sits at only 5% alcohol, with some sweetness, but it is very well balanced. It would make a fine patio aperitif with mild cheese and fruit.
Buyer’s Guide Vintages September 12: White Wines
Schild Old Vine Chardonnay 2025, South Australia, Australia
$23.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – Harmony and integration are the theme of this old-vine chardonnay. Barrel influence lends subtle dimension and texture to a core of supple stone fruit and juicy mosambis (sweet lemon), while the pretty perfume of orchard blossoms adds allure.
David Lawrason – This is a nicely complete and complex chardonnay, from an excellent producer. All of which makes me marvel somewhat at the price. The nose wafts complex tropical pineapple, lemon, hazelnut, and spice. It is medium-full bodied, firm and well-structured, with good acidity and a sense of minerality.
Nals Margreid Hill Pinot Grigio 2025, Alto Adige-Trentino, Italy
$24.95, Mondo Vino
Megha Jandhyala – With freshness, balance, and plenty of character, this is a special pinot gris. Waves of orchard, stone, and citrus fruit are lifted by fresh acidity and followed by a pleasant undercurrent of bitterness that pulls gently on the long finish.
Casal Di Serra Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore 2023, Marche, Italy
$28.95, Connexion Oenophilia
Megha Jandhyala – This verdicchio has a lovely texture —it is gently curvy and rounded, with pleasantly firming acidity. It tastes delicious too, with flavours of zesty citrus fruit and ever so delicately sweet, ripe apples, pears, and nectarines.
Umani Ronchi Centovie Pecorino 2024, Abruzzo, Italy
$28.95, Connexion Oenophilia
Sara d’Amato – A sophisticated find from Abruzzo, tucked between mountain and sea. A peppy, fresh, unoaked pecorino with a compelling nose of jasmine, white pepper, and melon. Characterful and concentrated with memorable length.
Maison Roche De Bellene Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Chardonnay 2024, Burgundy, France
$29.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
David Lawrason – Roche de Bellene always displays lovely sheen and texture. This is impressive. The nose shows fine, complex scents. It is medium bodied and very smooth yet underpinned by perfect acidity. Alcohol is also just right at 12.5%.
Megha Jandhyala – A Bourgogne blanc of understated beauty and gentle eloquence, this old-vine chardonnay has well-defined but restrained aromas of green apples, pears, lemons, and orchard blossoms. Oak and lees influence add nuance and flavour to this supple, silky wine.
Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$55.00, Arterra Wines Canada
David Lawrason – Here’s broad-shouldered, well-balanced chardonnay from a classic Bench site. The nose is loaded with hazelnut, cedar and nutmeg spice, vanilla custard and ripe pear fruit. It is medium-full bodied, intense, rich yet nicely firm. But for all its size and barrel-driven flavours it narrows to a very fine, elegant and mineral finish, with excellent length.
Buyer’s Guide Vintages September 12: Red Wines
Frankland Rocky Gully Shiraz 2022, Western Australia, Australia
$17.95, The Case For Wine
David Lawrason – From the far southwest, cooler Frankland River region of Australia comes a ripe, supple shiraz. It sports a very pretty nose of peony florality, black cherry, very fine pepper, and herbs. It is very smooth, almost suave, and silky on the palate, with very fine tannin.
Sara d’Amato – This is a spicy, savoury shiraz, almost syrah-like, with an enticing vein of peppercorn and violets. Modern, clean and representative, it packs plenty of substance without sacrificing aromatic intrigue.
Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso Valpantena 2024, Veneto, Italy
$26.95, Profile Wine Group (Barrique)
Sara d’Amato – A refreshingly low-alcohol Valpolicella at 12%, ready to meet your weeknight needs. Ethereal in style, with delicate tannins and refreshing acidity. Peppery rose petal and tender red fruit bring plenty of charm, while good concentration and length add substance. Chill slightly or don’t — it’s ready to drink.
David Lawrason – This is a classic, traditionally made Valpolicella that’s dry and firm — almost tart- edged — but offers classic lifted strawberry, rhubarb, and sour cherry, with fragrant rosemary and cinnamon notes. It is light to medium bodied, juicy and quite intense. Excellent length. Great pizza wine.
Tawse Growers Blend Cabernet Franc 2021, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Tawse
Megha Jandhyala – This is an excellent Ontario cabernet franc. It showcases a perfect amount of ripeness, with subtle herbaceous notes joining concentrated fruit flavours. Oak influence is similarly harmonious and integrated. At five years old, this wine is both vibrant and beginning to show subtle signs of age.
David Lawrason – This is surprisingly youthful and ripe for a 2021, which was a lighter, rainy vintage. Very impressed. The nose is generous and even with classic raspberry, violet, fine peppery/cedary spice. It is medium weight and fairly firm, with good acidity and fine, starchy tannin.
Sara d’Amato – This cabernet franc has plenty of youthful vigor tempered by poise and balance, with a delightful streak of salinity. Notably complete and satisfying at just 12.5% ABV — proof that heft and alcohol aren’t necessarily drinking buddies.
Westcott Estate Pinot Noir 2023, Ontario, Canada
$33.95, Westcott Vineyards
David Lawrason – I was struck by this NWAC Silver Medalist during a visit to the winery this summer. It is vibrant and elegant beyond expectation, with an evolving cedary, spicy nose around the classic sour cherry pinot fruit — an evocative scent and mature for a 2023. It is light to medium bodied and nicely integrated with smooth fine-grained tannin. Wanted more length but it works hard.
R. López De Heredia Tondonia Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain
$82.95, John Hanna & Sons
Sara d’Amato – A worthy splurge, Tondonia’s 2014 Reserva makes tempranillo the star of show, joined by garnacha, graciano, and mazuelo, all grown in the calcareous soils of Rioja Alta and aged for eight years in American oak. Remarkably, the fruit remains vibrant 12 years on. Sophisticated and finely poised, it’s drinking beautifully now but is in no hurry to be opened.
And that is a wrap for the edition. We return to cover the September 26 release, which promises to take us Beyond Cabernet.
– David
Use these quick links for access to all of our September 12th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – September 12th
Megha’s Picks – September 12th
Sara’s Selections – September 12th
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