Buyer’s Guide to Vintages August 10 & August 24 Releases

The Long, Long LCBO Summer Ends with Great Low-Priced Values

By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato, Megha Jandhyala

Thank goodness — for those of us whose lives are bound up with the LCBO — that the long, long LCBO Summer is almost over. And bonus that my first trip to a convenience store to buy beer and cider is just around the corner. I will check out the wines, but not holding out hope for a miracle selection.

To recap for those who have zoned out since Canada Day weekend, LCBO employees went on strike July 5, and closed stores for the first time in the LCBO’s 97-year history. The Canadian Union of Public Employees rightfully feared for their jobs with the on-rushing sale of wine, beer and RTDs (ready-to-drink alcohol beverages) into convenience stores September 5; then, coming in early November, a greatly expanded grocery and big box retailing market. I wrote about the strike here at the time.

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There was no consumer outrage over the strike, we simply shopped for wine elsewhere thanks to years of creeping liberalization/privatization since 2016. The LCBO kept online ordering going, but it quickly became chaotic with long delivery times and thousands of orders eventually being cancelled by the LCBO. Agents selling direct to consumers and restaurants were hobbled by picket lines at some LCBO warehouses. On July 19, the strike ended with the government promising LCBO workers job security and no store closures.

But no one has said for how long! Once private competition and more open pricing is fully established over the next two plus years, I am betting on the eventual, gradual closing of LCBO stores. There will simply be no rationale for taxpayers to prop up less-efficient, more-costly government stores.

The strike tossed the Vintages release program off the rails. The July 5 release sat unsold in shuttered stores for two weeks. The July 20 online release was scrapped, then in early August it was announced that the huge 150-wine August 10 release would be delayed and rolled into the August 24 flagship stores release. So, for six weeks there was no new stock flowing onto the shelves. Bleak!

It came back with a vengeance last week with 190 new wines arriving at the largest LCBO flagship stores. But it was not without hiccups, at least at the store where WineAlign shops. It took three days to get all the wines on shelf, a situation not helped by vacationing staff shortages. Nonetheless by the end of day Friday, the WineAlign Crü tasted about 75 wines, and we present our picks below, in ascending price order.

I always look for silver linings — this time found in some truly great values. August releases have historically featured lower priced wines — put on shelf while fewer people are looking — and this year there are many examples. Of the 149 wines on the August 10 release there are only 15 wines over $30, 58 between $20 and $30, 64 between $15 to $20, with 12 under $15. We highlight some of the best buys below.

The values tend to be found in regions that have historically not been able to achieve premium prices — South Africa, of course, South America and southern Europe. Why all from the south? In fact, there is considerable critic alignment on a dandy clutch of whites and light reds from Sicily and Greece that offer terrific value in brisk yet highly structured wines from native Mediterranean white grapes like assyrtiko, grillo, malagouzia, and reds grapes like frappato and nerello mascalese. Many have a summer drinking vibe. You will spy them in our lists below.

On one last positive note, dozens of unsold, strike-addled, online Classics items are said to be scheduled to come on-shelf in Flagship stores over the next two or three weeks. So, time to check back with the LCBO if you have taken the summer off.

Buyer’s Guide Aug 10 and 24: Rosé and Sparkling

Solis Lumen Rosé 2023, Languedoc, France
$14.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
Sara d’Amato – With a name that evokes Mediterranean sunsets, this juicy, dry rosé with a relaxed elegance is made by Bernard and Olivier Coste of Domaine de Montrose rooted in Pézenas in the Languedoc. This IGP Pay’s d’Oc blend is made from organically raised grenache and cinsault from partner growers. A poolside rosé with a touch more finesse than the norm. I would like to find this wine in sustainably packaged bag-in-box as is sold in France.
David Lawrason – Here is a very tidy, clean and light rose with pure aromas of peach and strawberry. It is very crisp and tart-edged, but most of all ultimately refreshing. Great end of summer hot weather kicker.

Attems Cupra Ramato Pinot Grigio 2023, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
$19.95, Mark Anthony Group
David Lawrason – Fine-boned, tender, dry and fresh pinot gris rose made via extended skin contact with the purple/grey “grigio” skins. Subtle peach skin, strawberry and white rose aromas. Delicate and charming.
Sara d’Amato – Friuli locals would never classify the distinctive and historically steeped “ramato” style of wine as “orange” or “rosé” but essentially, the wine is a skin-contact pinot grigio. Pinot “grigio” is a grey (or pink-skinned) mutation of pinot noir and allowing the crushed skins to remain in contact with the juice for a short while gives the wine a colour that resembles a coppery rosé. In this case the result is a compelling range of flavours from rose petal to ginger and grapefruit skin. An engaging conversation starter.

Anthonij Rupert L’ormarins Cap Classique Blanc De Blancs 2018, Western Cape, South Africa
$28.95, John Hanna & Sons
Michael Godel – My goodness how concentrated and substantial this is for Cap Classique. Fine work once again from a sparkling program as competent as any, including Graham Beck, to make high-quality sparkling wine that anyone can afford.
David Lawrason – Superb value in chardonnay-based blanc de blancs, offering great charm and structure. Fine, complex aromas of vanilla cream, shortbread and apple strudel. It is medium weight, creamy yet brisk and dry with outstanding length.
Sara d’Amato – Time to stock up on sparkling wine as this undeniable bargain is sure to appear fleetingly on the shelves. Made with a slight bit of barrel aging for enhanced richness and then aged on lees for four years, this poised yet satisfying Cap Classique is a sophisticated find.
John Szabo – A refined and sophisticated blanc de blancs with textbook profile, dry and perfectly balanced in the end. Sharp value from this historic estate, ready to drink.

Buyer’s Guide Aug 10 and 24: Whites

Colomé Torrontés 2023, Salta, Argentina
$15.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
Sara d’Amato – If you’ve found Argentinian torrontés one-dimensional or lackluster in the past, its likely because you haven’t been reaching high enough, that is, in elevation. Grown at 1700 meters at the estate’s La Brava estate in Salta’s the Calchaqua Valley, this delectably salty expression of the variety features subtle notes of elderflower, ginger, and grapefruit. Acidity is bolstered by minerality and flintiness on the palate while the concentration is notable despite a relatively moderate degree of alcohol.
David Lawrason – Nose-bleed value torrontés from this high-altitude Andean region. Aromas soar with exotic muscaty pungency -—full of kiwi/guava, spearmint, lavender and fennel. It is medium-weight rich yet uncannily brisk and refreshing. You can’t afford not to try it.

Lavau Côtes Du Rhône Blanc 2022, Rhône, France
$16.95, Connexion Oenophilia
Megha Jandhyala – This easy, sunny blend of grenache blanc and viognier is brimful of ripe orchard and citrus fruit, alongside a hint of toasted bread and honeysuckle. I like its simplicity, approachability, and balance and at $16.95, I would buy several bottles of this wine for my bar.

Rabl Löss Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kamptal, Austria
$17.95, Vintage Trade Wine
Sara d’Amato – This well-priced entry-level peppery grüner from Rabl is pleasurably tart and dry with notes of elderflower, orange blossom, bergamot and chamomile. Elegant and zesty but poised andbala nced. Features spot-on typicity and a great deal of charm for the price.

Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2023, Greece
$18.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
David Lawrason – This once obscure aromatic grape is making a great name for itself in Greece. Expect pretty white melon, lychee, lemon blossom. It opens tropical but firm acidity catches hold and pilots to a long, clean, dry and quite mineral finish.
Megha Jandhyala – Here is a chance to try malagouzia, a local indigenous grape. This single-vineyard example is delicious, with its firm, glossy palate that seems to explode with citrus and tropical fruit, and its bright, refreshing finish!
John Szabo – Lovely, fresh and fragrant, classically-styled malagouzia here that will be reminiscent of sauvignon blanc for many drinkers from a top producer in northern Greece. Well worth discovering.
Sara d’Amato – I’m enamoured by this northern, alpine Greek malagouzia with its restrained florality, zesty lime, and its dry, salty, and mouthwatering profile. Seafood is an essential accompaniment — the brininess only enhancing the wines naturally refreshing character. Light to mid-weight with clean and unmistakable sense of place.

Mallory & Benjamin Talmard Mâcon Uchizy 2022, Burgundy, France
$20.95, Glencairn Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – A glimpse of the sophistication of more famous white Burgundy from the Cote Beaune, at a fraction of the price. Soft and ripe chardonnay with buttered croissant, baked apple and gentle spice, with just enough acidity and minerality to define Burgundy.

Regaleali Cavallo Delle Fate Grillo 2022, Sicily, Italy
$23.95, VIN PASSION (The Case For Wine)
David Lawrason – From one of the great estates of Sicily, there are extra layers of structure and complexity that make this normally soft very compelling. Expect fig, green banana, lemon-lime and wet stone (petrichor) and waxy olive notes. Medium-full bodied, firm and solid. Big surprise!
John Szabo – With impressive depth and density at the price, this wine has all the pleasure of an unoaked chardonnay from a warm climate, but with an additional level of interest thanks to the Mediterranean scrub and zesty underlying acids.
Michael Godel – Grillo like this is fanciful and airy, come away with a lighter touch than many produced on the island of Sicily. Reminds of sauvignon blanc from Sancerre though lighter and brighter while also sweetly herbal and quite fine.

Preiss Kammerling Grüner Veltliner 2022, Austria
$23.95, Marchands des Ameriques
Michael Godel – Viktoria Preiß and her partner Klaus from their Thayern farm are showing the world what Traisental grüner veltliner can really be. Complex and punchy with a varietal note held so very long.

Wine Art Estate Idisma Drios Assyrtiko 2022, Macedonia, Greece
$28.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
David Lawrason – Very fine, mineral and even handed assyrtiko with a tightly wound nose of lemon-lime peel, wet stone and cucumber/celery. Medium bodied, tight, crunchy and mouthwatering, with excellent length.

Estate Argyros Assyrtiko 2022, Santorini, Greece
$45.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
John Szabo – This is Argyros’s flagship wine, made from 120–150-year-old vines and aged on fine lees for three months in steel. It’s terrifically stony on the nose, simmering with complexity, with searing, saliva-inducing acids, properly lean and tight and saline. Remarkable stuff. Best Drink 2026-2036.
Michael Godel – Hard to find a more definitive assyrtiko than the Argyros, archetypal example that is has been for decades and counting. Shaped by volcanics, Aegean waters and sea air.
Megha Jandhyala – This is classic Santorini assyrtiko — savoury, smoky, and stony, yet also perfumed, and always intriguing and enigmatic. I love the fleshy palate, the firm acidity, and the long, riveting, saline finish.
Sara d’Amato – There is a great deal of salty substance to this assyrtiko from Argyros’ exceptionally old, ungrafted vines rooted in volcanic and sandy soils. No oak is required nor used in this wine of exceptional intensity. The potential for ageing is manifest in its almost overwhelming concentration so best to hold another 2-4 years.

Domaine Charly Nicolle Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourneaux 2020, Burgundy, France
$52.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – Nuanced, perfumed, stony, and concentrated, this is quintessential Chablis, well worth its price tag. At four years old it is drinking well now but can easily be cellared for a special occasion until the close of the decade.

Chartron Et Trébuchet Chassagne Montrachet 2021, Burgundy, France
$127.95, HEKTARS AGENCE INC.
Megha Jandhyala – If you are thinking of splurging on a special wine, consider this still-youthful Chassagne-Montrachet. It combines decadence with elegance in an entrancing display of rich flavour and texture. Singular both in its quality and length, I think it is worth its price for those who would enjoy it slowly and thoughtfully.
Sara d’Amato – A cool and damp vintage has given way to a nervy expression of Chassagne Montrachet yet one that still exhibits characteristic richness and concentration. A very judicious use of oak allows the citrus fruit, verbena, and butter to rise above toast and spice on the palate. Decadence is curbed by invigorating freshness.

Buyer’s Guide Aug 10 and 24: Reds

Château Saint Cyrgues 2022, Languedoc, France
$14.95, Signature Wines & Spirits Ltd.
Michael Godel – Iron and blood straight away from this ferric and sanguine red from the Costières-de-Nîmes and my goodness what great genes for a $15 red. Character and complexity at this price is unconscionable.

Clos Bagatelle à L’origine 2022, Languedoc, France
$16.95, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – What a spiffy buy for $17. It packs complex, almost candied aromas of cherry jam, Turkish delight, pepper, hashish (yup) and spice. It is medium weight, supple and smooth trailing a mineral hot stone finish.
Megha Jandhyala – Syrah, grenache, carignan, and mourvèdre come together harmoniously yet distinctly in this peppery, engaging, and supple blend. There is so much flavour on offer here for under $17!

Pipoli Aglianico Del Vulture 2020, Italy
$16.95, Profile Wine Group (Barrique)
Sara d’Amato – A just-ready-to-drink aglianico with a typically full-bodied mouthfeel and licorice-tinged, sweetly ripened red fruit. Features pronounced intensity of flavour but strikes a great equilibrium with 13.5% abv and a notable balance of acid and tannin, all for under $17
John Szabo – Fine value, juicy, fresh and firm aglianico representing the slopes of this extinct volcano nicely. I like the gritty texture, the savoury, leathery flavours that match the regional expectations, a lot of wine for $17. Drink or hold late into the decade.

Tapiz Malbec 2021, Mendoza, Argentina
$14.95, DB Wine & Spirits
David Lawrason – Overdelivers with an engaging nose of mulberry/raspberry fruit, peppermint, violet and fine oak. It is surprisingly full, dense and rich – yet very well balanced. Very good to excellent.

Famille Descombe Granite Beaujolais Villages 2022, Beaujolais, France
$18.95, Marchands des Ameriques
David Lawrason – Delicious, ripe and ready gamay with jammy aromas strawberry/cherry, rose and vague pepper. supple and fruity yet it is hinged on good acidity and a seam of granitic minerality, that narrows the finish.

Chapel Hill The Parson’s Nose Shiraz 2022, South Australia
$19.95, VIN PASSION (The Case For Wine)
Michael Godel – The representation of McLaren Vale is right there and not the depth and concentration are not that of the bigger and more expensive ones, yet the Parson can still deliver a proper varietal sermon. Happy to sit for this preach any day of the week.

Château Guillou 2021, Bordeaux, France
$22.95, Connexion Oenophilia
Megha Jandhyala – From a “satellite” appellation of Saint-Êmilion, the 2021 Château Guillou is lively, balanced, and supple, with engaging red and dark fruit flavours and appealing herbaceous overtones. It is ready to drink but can also be cellared for 3–4 years, making it a great candidate for a cellar staple or “house wine.”

Umani Ronchi Cúmaro Conero Riserva 2019, Marche, Italy
$26.95, Perugini Fine Wines
Megha Jandhyala – This pure montepulciano from the Marche region in central Italy is drinking beautifully now and should pair well with vegetarian pastas and pizzas alike. It is approachable and inviting, yet self-possessed, showcasing perfectly ripe, tender red fruit, seamlessly integrated with subtle spice, while the palate is generous but balanced. I would buy a few bottles of this wine to enjoy over the next 4–5 years.

Firriato Le Sabbie Dell’etna Rosso 2020, Sicily, Italy
$25.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
David Lawrason – Light-hearted nerello mascalese and cappuccio grown on the slopes of Etna deliver a pale red with a smoky/flinty volcanic nose bristling with sour cherry, strawberry, fresh herbs and red rose florality. Fleshy, intense and warm.

Planeta Frappato 2022, Sicily, Italy
$24.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – Lovers of zesty, fresh, chillable reds should have frappato on their lists of varieties to track down, This fine example from Planeta pours a pale red-garnet colour in the style of pinot noir, and delivers a typical waft of wild strawberry and cracked black pepper, rosemary and thyme in a very Mediterranean flavour expression yet with a much more northern textural impression with its crunchy acids and light, 12.5% alcohol — the magic of the variety.
David Lawrason – This pale red frappato shows pretty floral aromas with sour red pomegranate fruit and vague spice.
Sara d’Amato – This stalwart organic frappato features generous peppery aromas in this 2023 incarnation and is brimming with wild strawberry and raspberry along with a pleasant musk, chalky graphite, lively acids, and feathery tannins. Highly gulpable and deceptively complex. Best to enjoy in its youthful condition.

Loop Road Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago, New Zealand
$37.95, Amethyst Wine Agency Inc.
John Szabo – Classic Otago pinot, vibrantly fruity, pure, darkly flavoured, with quality wood influence and well above average depth and density.

Querciabella Chianti Classico 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$40.95, BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE UNITED DIVISON
Michael Godel – First vintage in which 10 percent of the new Casole (Lamole) vineyard provides lift by fruit at higher elevation, There have been stylish and luxe Querciabella Classicos in the past (like 1999) and this is surely one of those follow-up annata (after 2019) that takes another step.

Poderi 322 Brunello Di Montalcino 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$59.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – Clearly serious wine straight off. I love the mix of savoury red and black fruit, wild herbs, damp earth and exotic spice — so much going on here. A fantastic vintage and highly impressive wine, drinking well even now, though another 2-3 years will surely see positive development, and it has the stuffing to go comfortably into the ’30s.

And that’s a wrap for this edition. We will be back to cover the September 7 release. Wishing all a great
Labour Day weekend, then back to business.

Use these quick links for access to all of our Aug 10th Top Picks & Aug 24th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – Aug 10th , Lawrason’s Take – Aug 24
Michael’s Mix – Aug 10th , Michael’s Mix – Aug 24th
Megha’s Picks – Aug 10th , Megha’s Picks – Aug 24th
Sara’s Selections – Aug 10th , Sara’s Selections – Aug 24th
Szabo’s Smart Buys – Aug 10th , Szabo’s Smart Buys – Aug 24th

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