Thirty Years of Thirty Bench Wine Makers
Three decades of discovery, Q & A with Emma Garner, Forever Riesling and the Celebration
By Michael Godel
This feature was commissioned by Thirty Bench Wine Makers.
In 2015, Thirty Bench Wine Makers was bestowed with the honour of Canada’s Best Performing Small Winery at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. This is the sort of accolade that could only be given to a producer held true to their land with the greatest integrity and respect. The Beamsville Bench estate was officially founded in 1994 by the late Dr. Thomas James “Tom” Muckle, but the passion, inspiration and insight began more than 10 years prior when the good doctor first planted vines at the site. Between 1980 and 1984, along with two inexperienced winemakers Yorgos Papageorgiou and Frank Zeritsch, they initiated a journey that would see Thirty Bench become established as one of the most respected wineries in Niagara, Ontario and Canada. Dr. Muckle’s daughter Fiona took on the role of estate manager and many famous viticultural and oenological names have had a hand in this thirty year evolution, none more so than winemaker Emma Garner.
Three decades of discovery
Dr. Tom Muckle was a pathologist and professor, but in his last 33 years he focused on becoming a great winemaker. He passed away on November 7, 2014, at 83, yet left behind one of Niagara’s greatest stories of from-amateur-to-professional success. Dr. Muckle’s property can be quantified as being 450 million years old, a place where sediment has been compressed into rock, much of it limestone and shale. Weathering of the geology is responsible for creating today’s unique Escarpment landforms and Thirty Bench’s position on Mountainview Road aboard the Beamsville Bench is one of the finest for grape cultivation. Long growing seasons and cool nights make this place a veritable Eden for cool-climate viticulture, where riesling can co-exist with Bordelais (especially cabernet franc) and Burgundian grape varieties. Very few Niagara terroirs can do all three of the majors as well as Thirty Bench Bench — and wine lovers should pay attention because recent additional plantings of gamay tell us that the team has its sights set on the Beaujolais as well. The estate mantra has run true for three decades — an approach that says “less is more” with a commitment to small-lot winemaking. At Thirty Bench, this means a good number of wines are made in extremely limited quantities.
Q & A with Emma Garner
That same year the winery was given the WineAlign nod, Garner was chosen as winemaker of the year at the Ontario Wine Awards. The accolades kept coming and in 2018 her Small Lot Cabernet Franc was tops in the world at the Decanter World Wine Awards. After graduating from Brock University’s Oenology and Viticulture program Emma spent time in Australia, New Zealand, France, Germany and British Columbia before returning to Niagara to work at Trius Winery through 2005. She later joined the Thirty Bench team and in 2010 took over as head winemaker.
Michael recently sat down with her to talk about all things Thirty Bench.
Q. You are a graduate of the Oenology and Viticulture program at Brock University. What led you there and how did you arrive to become head winemaker at Thirty Bench?
A. I came from Fergus, Ontario, and before I finished high school, I wasn’t exactly sure…. I knew I wanted to go into sciences, so I applied to forensics, archeology and the oenology program. I got into all three — and I chose the oenology and agriculture program because I liked it from the perspective of wine and travel, but also because there’s a lot of science involved. I enjoyed that discipline. The best part is the biotech program and Andrew Reynolds was a great mentor. He was the one professor that loved music, loved life outside of teaching the science and had a crazy, photographic memory. I always respected his ability to engage his students and inspire us to learn more.
The first vineyard placement I did in 1998 was at Wismer’s Foxcroft Vineyard and then at Cave Spring in 2000. The first wine placement was at Inniskillin with David Sheppard, Phillip Dowell and, of course, Karl Kaiser. In 2002, I was at Hillebrand with J-L Groux, where he hired me on as an R&D winemaker. I worked with him for six months and returned to school — and he hired me back in 2003. I finished my degree part-time because I had a job that seemed pretty good, and then a winemaking position in Grimsby opened up. I figured, Well, I just paid a whole lot of money to learn, and now I was getting paid to learn. In 2005, Andrew Peller Limited purchased Thirty Bench. I was like the kid looking over the fence and was then brought in to work here. It was a full circle moment for me having enjoyed those wines when I first came down to Niagara to now being able to work with the grapes from that property and eventually make the wines.
Q. Tell us about your memories of Dr. Muckle?
A. I remember tasting through the wines, coming here to look at the assets. At that time, it was obviously very different from how it looks today. You could tell Dr. Muckle was putting in great effort. It takes a lot of time and energy to maintain and — because they were perpetual learners — they had so many little experiments and everything was everywhere. Tom was a huge wine fan and collector, and, from a winemaking standpoint, I don’t think any of them had any official training. But Cave Spring used to buy fruit from the Triangle vineyard back in those days, so they would have sort of found their way together. I’m sure Ange [Cave Spring winemaker Angelo Pavan] would have been a part of their riesling journey and then I think it was just a matter of learning on the fly. And, because of the character that Dr. Muckle was, he researched things to the end, even what clones to plant. He was part of that group of pioneers that included the Pennachettis [owners of Cave Spring] and the Schmidts [winemakers at Vineland Estate].
Q. When you joined Thirty Bench what were the early plans and how have things evolved?
A. The initial long-term goal was to become one of the ultra-premium wineries. That required a fair amount of capital investment: a massive infrastructure change, as well as processing changes, to make wines that were scarce, that reflected this area, terroir and piece of land. And then to continue to build and to grow. Darryl Brooker was really leading that, but Tom and Yorgos also had impact and influence. I remember 2009 was a really challenging year — a super cool year, especially for the reds. I think that was sort of the beginning of the end for their participation and Darryl went to B.C., to CedarCreek. It was funny, I was on maternity leave that year and he’s like, So you’re gonna become the head winemaker. We had two weeks together when I got back from that leave and then Craig McDonald [now executive vice-president of operations at Peller] was hired. Darryl was very much the mind behind a lot of the wine that was being made at that time. I learned a ton from working with him, while Craig was a bit more hands off and trusting. It’s been interesting finding my way under those different types of leadership styles.
Q. How do you work with the Peller team and how does that dynamic affects your work with Thirty Bench?
A. There’s one Peller team and we all get deployed as needed. For our premium lines, we’re all working together. I work closely with Peller winemaker Katie Dickieson and Craig. So the resource pool is one team.
It’s been an interesting journey. I think there was probably some concern and worry when people saw the big corporate giant — Andrew Peller Limited — purchasing Thirty Bench. Like, Oh, there you go, now we’re gonna lose all that wonderful wine. But really the financial investment was sorely needed — but also just maintaining the focus. That was something no one wanted to lose, what we think of premium wine today. APL brought in a cooling system and the fruit from here is pressed and processed on site. It’s just been more about streamlining and integrating [processes] into the bigger company. Actually, it’s remarkable how the integrity is still maintained 20 years later. I’m so happy because even as you get different leadership throughout the company, you can replicate these wines.
Q. What comes next for Thirty Bench Wine Makers?
A. Premium is a challenge, especially right now, thinking through today’s lens. The focus is on the premium processing and the importance of where things come from. From an internal company standpoint, we’ve had to work to educate our teammates. Because prior to this time, I know the head winemakers were making the wines the way they wanted to, and they didn’t necessarily fit into what the company wanted. Still, we’re doing it our way — and Peller appreciates my perspective. You can’t be all “ultra.” You need to have various levels of quality, but you can make the best wine at any of those levels. That was always what we were striving to do. It’s a really dynamic industry we’re in, the ebbs and flows of every season, and so being questioned and challenged is a good thing. I still like that perpetual learning and listening to the season, but with a little less academics. The biggest understanding is about the land and where things grow best. I think that’s where the quality of our wines across the board has improved. Before, there was not a lot of elegance, because we just didn’t understand.
For our 30th anniversary, we’re making a new 2023 vintage-dated sparkling wine from traditional varieties (pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier) and laying it down for five years. For our 35th, we’ll be cracking that open, which I’m super excited about. In 2023 we were given enough grapes so we could be a bit more creative. I love spending time out of the vineyard and just seeing what is coming this year, just talking to Wade Stark [manager of vineyard operations]. He’s the boots on the ground for the company.
The Saunders family [neighbouring growers] asked us to consider switching to organics and so we did in 2012 and were certified three years later. We’ve since retrained the vines and it’s a really great spot now. We’ve converted others to organic and it’s just amazing — witnessing the premium nature of that, something that’s really special. Again, I think it comes back to observing, watching and learning — we get one shot at it every year. So this narrative is for the long game — understanding tonnage, that effect on fruit quality, and the processing downstream… what needs to happen in order to make that fruit turn into great wine.
I still love making wine. Every year is just like another shot at trying something new, and perpetual learning. I don’t want to generalize, but it’s well known [that new generations] drink a lot less and it affects their understanding and appreciation of wine, in how it fits into tradition, how it fits into wine regions. The global wine world is feeling this as well. It’s not just specific to Ontario or to Canada. Our job is to inspire and to help them realize that it’s not just something that people are going to try, that there’s something very special that makes it different than other beverages. A snapshot, a part of your life. Yes, I think for myself, maybe long-term, getting into education because that’s a big part of it. Having been a student of wine my entire life, you know, giving that back.
Forever Riesling
In June of 2014 a transformation was set in motion for 25 acres at the top northwest corner of the Thirty Bench property when it was replanted using the Weiss Clone 21b riesling and renamed the Dr. Muckle Vineyard. The rootstock for this block comes from the three single riesling vineyards: Triangle, Wood Post and Steel Post. Today, these vines are responsible for producing the Thirty Bench Wild Cask Riesling. Ten years ago, at a Terroir Symposium, riesling panelist Emma Garner said, “the Bench is home to a mineral wealth of local riesling, singular in composition not only by way of a global comparison, but also from plot to plot, soil to soil and vineyard to vineyard.” Godello summarized that “riesling brokers the nescient consumer with the gift of grape enlightenment.” John Szabo MS has duly noted that “no tasting at Thirty Bench is complete without a deep dive into riesling, winemaker Emma Garner’s admitted first varietal love.” David Lawrason reminded us that the Small Lot Wood Post 2021 was the only riesling (of 114 entries) at the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada to earn a Platinum medal. The feat is even more impressive when you consider that only chardonnay had more medals versus entries at the annual competition. All four Thirty Bench rieslings entered were medalists, adding Gold, Silver and Bronze to Wood Post’s Platinum.
A refresher on Triangle vineyard (planted in 1980-81) reminds that the eastern location is nine acres set at lower elevation than both Wood Post (planted in 1983-84) and Steel Post (1982) and is divided by a creek running through a wood. The mineral presence in Triangle is a result of less water retentive soil as compared to Steel Post and Wood Post. The transmission for (orchard or tropical) fruit is minimized and the vigour is low. The result is, well, mineral. Wood Post vineyard is the youngest of the three single vineyard blocks, here on nine acres and situated closest to the winery. It almost always shows less evolution, viscosity, wax and honey. A young Wood Post is poised and yet incomplete because the vineyard fetters this riesling to breathe slowly and take its sweet time. To this day it’s hard not to remember the most excellent Steel Post 2014 as a riesling that cut like a knife, right through fruit and right to the mineral heart of the matter. Steel Post is always true to its vineyard nature nomenclature, apropos of steel pulse beats and smoky-to-flinty intensity. Matchstick percusses flint for a mere nano-second, with just a brush on cymbal and the rock bleeds but is quickly clotted because the fruit still shines. The steely aspect is a posterior one, antithetical and yet purposed, from this vineyard.
Not to be overshadowed is the use of riesling for sparkling wine. For more than 10 years the team has been using a small dosage from one of the single vineyards (beginning with Steel Post) and the quality level in this non-vintage bubble is elevated with that world-class fruit. Aridity is never compromised while the subtle, rich, elongated and amalgamated orchard fruit aromatics are pure Beamsville. Besides, Garner wouldn’t waste a thimble-full of her riesling to make less than stellar sparkling wine. As for riesling labeled with no specific single vineyard affiliation, this classification for Thirty Bench is the furthest thing from being a “basic” or “entry-level” varietal wine. To consider riesling this way is such a stretch because all estate sites can destine to this bottle and that fruit is of the highest Beamsville distinction.
Burgundian Bench belief
Then there are what many believe to be the two most important varieties to grow aboard the Beamsville Bench, pinot noir and chardonnay. While those who are devout will surely say that riesling and cabernet franc are what Thirty Bench does best, taking a more diverse route and heeding extra-added advice is essential towards understanding the full meaning of this well-rounded estate. The pinot noir is also a small lot production and through the years it has played good bass lines, with baritone notes underneath, full of structure, real structure. Time has always had a positive effect on pinot noir and in the better vintages (like 2016) they can age well for up to a decade. Emma Garner is quite sure its longevity has to do with the site’s pH and she is actively pursuing more trials, new plantings and more focus on the variety. As for chardonnay there are two, Small Lot and Extended Barrel Aged (sometimes referred to as Extended Lees Aged). Small Lot just has to be the owner of the lowest of low alcohol readings as it pertains to the Beamsville Bench and, at 12.6 percent (from 2021), the conversion rate falls under the categorical auspices of magic. This is not a light chardonnay but it is a lithe, elastic and effusive one. Aromatically demure yet soft and almost caressing, without peppery (and sharp apple) bites. The palate runs a similar course, gracing with soft and round flavours that are easy and stretched. Lovely and amenable and one to savour slowly, in a calm and tranquil setting. Going forward there will be but one chardonnay, called Small Lot Extended Barrel Aged.
Varietal ace in the hole: Cabernet Franc
The 2020 vintage delivered a banner season for cabernet franc (and admittedly everything else for that matter) aboard the Beamsville Bench. Plenty of sunshine, heat units and the kind of climate that encouraged low, slow, long and fruitful ripening. In many respects cabernet franc is the flagship of all the Thirty Bench wines, a varietal exploration like no other, of direction, microcosm and intention. Unequivocally an extracted and concentrated cabernet franc that stays free of encumbrance, hinderance or adulteration. Emma Garner’s cabernet franc consistently walks that Beamsville Bench walk and talks that cabernet franc talk. World-beating, wholly and truly. The variety not only contributes to but leads the Thirty Bench Red, a Bordeaux blend that incorporates merlot and cabernet sauvignon. It has been described as a “big red machine, really ahead of the class, especially in this price range, with this much stuffing.” Consistency and subtlety are the hallmarks of this perennially approachable Bench red that can’t be overestimated. Really high quality red purity is ascertained from the blend with its spicy, tangy and moving parts coming together to unionize the fruit.
The Celebration
On September 6th Thirty Bench Wine Makers will be hosting a spectacular evening celebrating their 30th anniversary, culminating three decades dedicated to producing exceptional wines. There is no secret that the Beamsville Bench winery has been earning numerous awards on both national and international stages to consistently be recognized as one of Ontario and indeed Canada’s top wineries. The commemoration promises a night of festivities that includes award-winning wines, food stations and live music. Fans of the estate will be afforded the perfect opportunity to celebrate Thirty Bench’s rich history, connect with like-minded enthusiasts and meet winemaker Emma Garner. The team is preparing to toast 30 years of winemaking excellence and the vibrant community that has supported the work throughout their journey. Find out more here.
Wine Club members are invited to an exclusive reception hour before the event begins, to spend quality time with Garner and enjoy some rare and cherished back vintage wines. This intimate session is Thirty Bench’s way of thanking members for their unwavering support and passion for Thirty Bench.
Buyers’ Guide to the wines of Thirty Bench Wine Makers
The WineAlign critics recently sat down to assess a good number of Thirty Bench Wine Makers wines and it turned out to be one of the best tasting days of 2024. Especially considering this session came quick on the heels of i4C 2024, Niagara’s annual International Cool Chardonnay Conference. It was downright fascinating to work through Emma Garner’s ultra specific approach by variety and their subsequent results. These are our findings and recommendations.
Thirty Bench Sparkling Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula ($38.95)
David Lawrason – Huge value in a racy, intense, almost electric riesling-based sparkler. It has a lifted nose with petrol notes, linden florality, and green pear. It is very firm, taut with riveting acidity, but the fruit depth and a hint of sweetness keep it from being too austere.
Michael Godel – Been some time since last tasting the cracker of cracker sparkling rieslings and sometimes a higher yearning, learning and ripeness of fruit will make hay with its scintillant host. As is the case with this most recent Thirty Bench aged on lees for 12 months. No loss of zest or appetite for the crunchy one and yet get a mouthful from a bite into a dripping August nectarine.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench ($31.80)
John Szabo – No tasting at Thirty Bench is complete without a deep dive into riesling, winemaker Emma Garner’s admitted first varietal love. Multiple versions are made, including a trio of single vineyards such as this one, called the Triangle (the shape of the vineyard). The greatest fun is to taste them all side by side, but fans of austere and ascetic versions will, like me, likely fall for this one: pure, firm taut and uncompromisingly fresh. Chill, crack, go — or hold into the late ’20s if you want to experience maturity. The 2017 tasted alongside this in August was showing absolutely beautifully.
Michael Godel – Arguably the most fleshy of Emma Garner’s three single-vineyard rieslings. The acids from 2021 are striking, veering into the eye of a searing storm and if not for the most stringent selection there would be no pulp to stand alongside. There is, but now we understand why just 196 cases were produced. A remarkable effort and if so different to the Triangle norm, well so be it. This is cracker stuff, also gripped by phenols and should age 20 years easy.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Riesling Wood Post Vineyard 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench ($31.80)
David Lawrason – This was the only riesling at the 2024 National Wine Awards of Canada to earn Platinum. It is an intense, almost opulent and ripe riesling with very lifted aromas of green pear, petrol, lemon-lime and avocado. It is light bodied, slim, sylvan and streamlined, with great acidity balanced by some sweetness. Crazy good value!
John Szabo – There’s a little more flesh and generosity, plumpness and immediacy to the ’21 Wood Post riesling relative to the Triangle’s austerity, if one must split hairs, perhaps also a touch more residual sugar, though these wines usually all fall around the 10-12 gram level, mostly dry considering the rivetingly tart acids. Take your pick, or take them both to taste side by side.
Michael Godel – A riesling with a grippier presence, attack and only stringent selection could find the flesh to hang tightly on this very sturdy vintage-directed frame. Highly parochial and specific for Thirty Bench and there is no doubt that this abiding by vintage has resulted in such a specialized wine.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay 2021, VQA Beamsville Bench 2021 ($38.00)
John Szabo – Lovely lemon curd and citrus flavours lead on this bright and balanced, beautifully poised chardonnay, with impressive density in this challenging vintage, also resonance of flavour, lingering nicely. Wood is really well dialed – this is such an impressive wine, and so well priced in the realm of premium chardonnay.
Michael Godel – True to Bench chardonnay sprit and energy, standing upright, demanding to be noticed and in turn we are paying notice. A harvest of demand forces the team to focus and pay extra attention, to do everything possible for greater returns. Chablis like and in fact at 12.6 percent (low) alcohol this acts in a stoic and matter of fact way, without airs and confidently what it needs to be. Will not overwhelm any palate, nor will it takes any breath away. That said it should age longer than first anticipated.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay Extended Barrel Aged 2021, Beamsville Bench ($40.00)
Michael Godel – No compromise to fruit from a vintage aboard the Beamsville Bench that gave of itself selflessly to mingle in cahoots with the cohorts of barrels and nuances at every turn. Acumen begets probability which in turn generates prospect. Conclusions drawn are expressed with silent nods, a twinkle and smile. This will age gracefully for 10 years.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir 2019, VQA Beamsville Bench ($36.95)
David Lawrason – It was a cooler year but actually one of the better vintages for cool climate Niagara pinot. There is a pretty fragrance here with classic sour cherry, red rose, cinnamon, dried leaves and tobacco. It is light to mid-weight, firm and elegant, and heading into garnet-shaded maturity.
Michael Godel – Aging gracefully, slowly and incrementally, without any noticeable morphs or jumps to new epochs of character. Somewhat more of an aromatic tisane now, like Rooibos, and so there’s a calming, almost restorative effect imparted. Would suggest drinking sooner rather than later but this 2019 will last two years or more.
Thirty Bench Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Franc 2022, Niagara Peninsula ($26.95)
Michael Godel – Fine and knowable cabernet franc aromas, herbal and brushy, cool, minty, near ethereal. Silky and smooth, no coating or woollen feels upon the palate and while sharp and piqued there is elegance in this wine. Wood is very suave and sophistication emits every step of the way. A serious cabernet franc that stands up to be noticed.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Cabernet Franc 2020, VQA Beamsville Bench ($76.00)
David Lawrason – Consider this a cellar investment. Based on the great showing of the 2016 tasted simultaneously, this should shine in the 2030s. Is a very tidy, ripe and well-balanced cabernet franc from an excellent, healthy vintage. It is medium weight, firm, slightly tart-edged and still youthfully tannic.
John Szabo – The terrific 2020 red wine vintage yielded a beauty here from Thirty Bench, varietally authentic with its appealing streak of herbal-green flavours, aligned with sweet-ripe red and black fruit. Wood is perfectly dialled in, and the wine has depth and staying power in spades. But ultimately, it’s the sapid, gently saline quality that seals the deal, making it irresistible, although I’d suggest hanging on for another 2-3 years to capture its full glory. Or cellar comfortably into the ’30s.
Michael Godel – This has taken full advantage of the vintage conditions to procure as juicy, open and generous a franc blessed with aromatic volume, spice and that which makes a difference, followed by multifarious red fruits shading here and there to dark. The epitome of what it means to be cabernet franc on these Escarpment steps and with fine-grained tannins to make certain aging will be long and slow. Just about as impressive as that near-perfect 2016 though with just an extra drag of drying austerity that concentration can sometimes breed.
Good to go!
godello
This feature was commissioned by Thirty Bench Wine Makers. As a regular feature, WineAlign tastes wines submitted by a single winery, agent or region. Our writers independently, as always, taste, review and rate the wines — good, bad and indifferent, and those reviews are posted on WineAlign. We then independently recommend wines to appear in the article. Wineries, wine agents, or regions pay for this service. Ads for some wines may appear at the same time, but the decision on which wines to put forward in our report, and its content, is entirely up to WineAlign.