Buyer’s Guide to Vintages March 29th Release

John Szabo’s Vintages Review March 29: Elbows Up with Canadian Wine in Hand; Launch of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano’s Pievi; What do Consumers Think of Ontario Wine?
By John Szabo MS, with notes from Sara d’Amato, Megha Jandhyala, David Lawrason, and Michael Godel

Elbows Up: The Canadian World

Are we still trapped in the Old World vs. New World paradigm? Let’s move on. As David mentioned in the previous report, “It is fair to criticize the LCBO for not being a nimble organization,” but in this case they’ve had years to get with the times and speak to a new generation of consumers (the theme has cycled through every March/April for years). Alas, not so. See my report from last year for an explainer.

Let’s get on with the Canadian World. Since the unprecedented verbal and economic attacks on Canada by a belligerent U.S. administration, and the subsequent pulling of American wines and spirits from shelves and wine lists across the country in symbolic retaliation, we’ve witnessed a rarely seen level of pro-Canadian patriotic sentiment surge.

The wine industry has been quick to take advantage by putting Canadian products front and center. And drinking Canadian-made wines is a simple, symbolic way of showing support. But what do you really think of local wine?

Spring Tune Up: What Do Ontario Consumers Think of Ontario Wine?

This past weekend I attended the annual Spring Tune Up in Prince Edward County, a gathering of local growers and trade to assess the state of the industry and discuss topics of current interest, challenges and opportunities. A blind tasting of County chardonnay and pinot noir vs. international examples was led by sommelier Jay Whiteley, with the aim of situating these two flagship PEC varieties in a worldwide price/quality context. How did they stack up against similarly priced examples from other parts of the world?

The answer for me is simple: the best of the County stand comfortably side by side with equivalents from around the world. These are not inexpensive wines — the economics of producing wines in Prince Edward County don’t permit the production of $15 wines. That’s a model best left to growers in benign Mediterranean climates with fertile soils and cheap labour.

But PEC has another superpower: the region’s cool climate and stony soils can produce deeply flavourful, balanced and fully ripe wines at modest alcohol levels; the average hovers somewhere around 11%. This puts PEC wines naturally on the no/low alcohol spectrum, one of the fastest growing categories worldwide, without sacrificing flavour and pleasure. There are few other places that can do this so effortlessly. And when tasted alongside similarly priced, quality wines from other parts of the world, they actually seem a little underpriced.

Such was also the conclusion drawn by the group in attendance, composed of the choir to be sure, but also realists in the face of consumer feedback and sales. It seems not enough Ontario consumers are aware of, or agree with, the conclusions.

The reality is that most PEC wines do not sell out on release; none are on allocation, as is the case with the best from Sonoma or the Willamette Valley or, of course, Bourgogne. And this despite the fact that production is very limited, a fraction of a drop in the worldwide bucket. Production numbers are counted in bottles, not cases. “Why aren’t people lining up to get these wines?” asks one grower with a mixture of genuine confusion and exasperation. “They should be sold out before they’re even released.” It’s true. High quality + limited production + exceptional value should equal sold out products.

Whiteley, who spent considerable time in the restaurant industry in British Columbia before coming to Ontario, offered some perspective: “In B.C., there were so many great restaurants with 100% local wine lists. Sommeliers would scramble to get the latest releases from the most sought-after wineries. There was huge support for the local industry.”

Another producer at the gathering recounted a recent trip to the Eastern Townships in Québec, where, he said: “All the restaurants were offering Québec wine. Hybrids, vinifera, it didn’t matter. It was amazing to see.”

Another chimed in: “Yeah, and they love their artisanal cheeses, their produce and their meats. There’s a real pride in consuming local.”

But in Ontario, the situation appears to be different. “It’s a struggle to get our wines on restaurant lists,” laments one winery owner. The general consensus in the room was that Ontarians in particular still view Ontario wines with a measure of skepticism.

One attendee recounted a recent visit to an LCBO where a product consultant was pouring wines at the tasting bar. “He was offering several Ontario wines but told me that he hides the label before pouring because most customers have an immediate negative perception if they see Ontario. He’s had much more success pouring them blind and then revealing afterwards.”

“People still seem to see Ontario wines as it was in the 1980s,” says another, as though time has stood still for 40 years, and little has evolved in the Ontario industry.

I listened to this open dialogue with some disbelief. It was like stepping back in time to conversations that were heard 20 years ago, maybe even still lingering ten years ago in some corners. But in 2025? Isn’t it clear by now that Ontario makes excellent wine? We’ve known and celebrated this at WineAlign for years — the National Wine Awards of Canada, during which we taste some 2,000 wines from across Canada each year, is a perfect pulse-taking opportunity, and the Canadian heart is beating strong and steady. We’ve seen the number of excellent producers, and the overall quality of wines inexorably rise over the last nearly quarter-century.

But who am I to argue? These are the people on the front lines, at the tasting bar listening to consumers, on the road selling their wines to restaurants and dealing with the gatekeepers. I suppose Ontarians are not as far down the road of acceptance and appreciation as I would have believed, or as much as these producers and their colleagues province-wide would wishfully hope. It seems there’s still education to be done.

“We should be doing this sort of [comparative] tasting with the trade all over the province,” suggested one winemaker. “We don’t need to be doing this. We already know where we stand.”

If you still fall on the skeptical side, try one of the Ontario wine recommendations below, which include a “quintuple alignment,” a nod from all five WineAlign critics for Thirty Bench’s 2021 Small Lot Riesling “Wild Cask,” as rare as a total eclipse, or a very reliable triple for Cave Spring’s terrific value Estate Chardonnay 2023. And there are hundreds more to choose from on the WineAlign site; look for the National Wine Awards of Canada medal sticker accompanying reviews, which indicates wines that have been vetted by more than a dozen of the country’s top critics.

It’s often said that with crisis comes opportunity. As we rally around the Canadian flag with elbows up, this could be your opportunity to discover the great wines of Ontario, and Canada.

Drop us a line in the comment section with your thoughts.

Buyer’s Guide: New Releases of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022, Riserva 2021, and the Launch of the “Pieve” Designation

The big news this year at the annual anteprima — preview tastings of the latest Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines to arrive on the market — was the official launch of the long-awaited Pieve designation. These are essentially Riserva-level wines from one of 12 pievi (singular: pieve) or parishes within the DOCG, the latest and now top-level category of wines for this historic district. Was the wait worth it? For this reviewer the release might have been a bit premature. Read on for details on the new designation and the top wines released under it, so far, from the 2021 vintage.

Also arriving on markets now are the excellent 2022 Vino Nobile annata, a five-star (out of five) vintage with some terrific wines, one of the strongest releases in my 15-odd years of reporting on the region, as well as the 2021 Riservas, which is easily as strong a group as the new pieve-designated wines, some might argue stronger.

Click Vino Nobile di Montepulciano for all of the details and the top wines.

Buyer’s Guide March 29th: Ontario White and Sweet

Cave Spring Estate Grown Cave Spring Vineyard Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$21.95, CAVE SPRING CELLARS
John Szabo – A marvel of balance and freshness and an excellent value in any context, a lovely by-the-glass option. As a bonus, it’s made with care and respect for the planet.
David Lawrason – From mature vines, this is a tight and linear chardonnay thanks to the limestone clay soils of the Beamsville Bench. Very well structured. The nose is reserved but complex with yellow apple, wood spice and wet stone are well focused, hitting excellent length.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a lovely Ontario chardonnay, a crisp and invigorating example, made with fruit grown in limestone soils. It is balanced and focused, with appealing flavours of crunchy orchard fruit, juicy lemons, and gentle salinity.

Westcott Estate Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Westcott Vineyards
John Szabo – Another very fine local chardonnay from Westcott, gently creamy, lemon and pear-inflected, with subtle wood influence. Sophisticated and composed, drinking well now though comfortable in the cellar another half dozen years.

Thirty Bench Small Lot Wild Cask Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$32.00, Andrew Peller Limited
John Szabo – A riveting riesling from an expected source — Thirty Bench has long produced some of the province’s best. It’s maturing attractively now and very dry and shockingly flavourful at just 10.2% alcohol — the intensity carried on such a light frame is remarkable. Buyers in the no/low alcohol market take note. An easy five-star value; drink or hold into the mid-2030s.
Michael Godel – The 2021 comes from a bloody excellent vintage and this wine really shines. Spring 2025 is a perfect time to try it.
Sara d’Amato – Just take a sip of the 2021 Small Lot Wild Cask, and it’s clear: Thirty Bench is still leading the charge with some of Ontario’s finest rieslings. With its nervy, salty and mineral-driven profile, this lively riesling is only starting to show its age with a subtle note of petrol. A great alternative for those who crave no/low alcohol wines but haven’t found one that truly delivers. The residual sugar here is so well balanced, you won’t even notice it.
David Lawrason – The Thirty Bench Small Lot rieslings are clearly top of the class in Ontario and Canada. This so well balanced, expressive and detailed, with intense well-integrated peach, linden/jasmine florality, petrol and spice. It is just-off dry, compact and so well balanced, with fine acidity.
Megha Jandhyala – Classic pairings exist for a reason. This off-dry riesling is a great option to serve with spice-infused food, like Thai or Indian cuisine. It is juicy and fleshy, low in alcohol, bright with acidity, and full of crisp orchard fruit and sweet, ripe citrus fruit.

Tawse Riesling Icewine 2023, Ontario, Canada
$36.95, Tawse
John Szabo – A Canadian classic precisely rendered, sound and attractively chiselled. Flavours resemble apricot and quince jam, with wonderfully sapid and saliva-inducing, almost saline character, saltwater toffee and crème brulée. Length is excellent. Drink or hold into the early 2030s, or beyond — the landing strip will be long.

Buyer’s Guide March 29th: Ontario Red

Trius Distinction Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, Andrew Peller Limited
David Lawrason – Niagara will never make Napa Cabernet. But this lighter, bright and vigorous youngster has charm of its own. The nose blooms with blackberry/currant fruit, florals and vanillin. It is mid-weight, fairly creamy yet quite firm with some crusty tannin. Drinks well enough now, but best 2027 to 2031.

Cave Spring Estate Grown Cave Spring Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2023, Ontario, Canada
$20.95, CAVE SPRING CELLARS
John Szabo – There’s an honest, authentic feel to Cave Spring’s 2023 cabernet franc, nicely perfumed, silky but with underlying grit, contained and composed, riding a fine line between the floral and red fruit facets of the variety, and notably absent the green character frequently found in cool-climate examples. Well-made and appealing, best from 2025–30.
Michael Godel – Another warm vintage delivers ripe and well-developed fruit, but what separates this wine from many others is the consistency of its acidity. The team does right by grape and place once again, no matter the season.

Bachelder Les Villages Bench Pinot Noir 2022, Ontario, Canada
$34.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
David Lawrason – Here’s a peek into the Bachelder universe without paying for the more expensive single-vineyard wines. The nose is nicely lifted and complex with ripe (2022 vintage) cherry-raspberry fruit amid complex, so well-placed barrel toast, forest floor/moss and a hint of cinnamon. It is evenly balanced, smooth yet structured with modest, dusty tannin — but an overall delicacy and purity reside here.

Redstone Meritage 2020, Ontario, Canada
$46.95, Tawse
John Szabo – Redstone’s Meritage from the fine 2020 vintage, especially good for the red Bordeaux varieties, is showing really well at the moment, delivering a range of maturing aromas and flavours, from ripe, lightly desiccated black plum and black cherry fruit to freshly turned earth, dried herbs, roasted peppers and dried flowers. I like the plush, fluid palate, and the silky-firm tannins supported by lively acids. Drink now through 2032.
Michael Godel – The 2020 Meritage is just beginning to settle, soften and integrate its parts. Well done, Redstone, especially with thanks to (at that time) winemakers Rene Van Eden and the late, great Paul Pender.
David Lawrason – Pricy at first brush, but this is a very well-made, integrated and complex Bordeaux blend from an excellent vintage that could please for a decade to come. It is pitch-perfect, with blackcurrant fruit, dried herbs, tobacco and spice. The length is very good to excellent.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages March 29th: International Sparkling and White

Quercioli Lambrusco Di Sorbara Secco, Emilia Romagna, Italy
$14.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
John Szabo – For $15, this is joyful, terrific value Lambrusco from an arch-classic producer in the region, pouring a pale pinkish-red, and offering an attractive array of spiced-up red fruit, fresh and dried flowers, leafy-green and vegetal notes, genuinely secco on the palate. What more can I say? Chill and crack on a pizza Tuesday, or any other time.
Sara d’Amato – A lighter, brighter, take on Lambrusco, this refreshing rosé is drier than you’d expect, with an invigorating edge and subtle hints of rosebud and plum. If you sip it, patio weather may come!
Megha Jandhyala – Why not celebrate spring with this pretty, coral-toned Lambrusco? It is delicately sweet and juicy, with crunchy strawberries, raspberries, and red cherries that linger on the finish.

Novus Altitude Assyrtiko/Moschofilero/Malagousia 2023, Peloponnese, Greece
$15.95, Amphoreus Wines Inc
John Szabo – This has evolved surprisingly little since last tasting a year ago, remaining a fresh and fragrant white blend — simple but delightful, a zesty-fresh sipping white, impeccably made, without unnecessary bling. Chill and go.
Sara d’Amato – Crafted with the goal of introducing indigenous Greek grape varieties at an accessible price, this blends the aromatic trio of assyrtiko, moschofilero and malagousia grown in high-elevations of the Peloponnese. No oak here, the palate features lively acids and white grapefruit, while the nose is brimming with peach blossom, rose and white pepper.
David Lawrason – Great value in a clean, bright and quite intense blend of the three dominant white varieties of Greece. All Expect lemon-lime, yellow pear, plum and fennel. It is firm and dry with lovely mid-palate. Sauvignon blanc fans will enjoy.

Domaine Chauveau La Charmette Pouilly Fumé 2023, Loire, France
$27.95, Marchands des Ameriques
John Szabo – Textbook stuff, ready to enjoy, and, at this reasonable price, would make an attractive restaurant by-the-glass pour.
Sara d’Amato – Taught, salty and a touch savoury, this irresistible Pouilly-Fumé will have you salivating at first sip. Characteristically flinty with lemon zest, orange blossom and sage marking the nose. A perfect partner to the fresh vibrant flavours that Spring is about to deliver.

Buyer’s Guide March 29th: International Reds

Bisquertt Family Vineyards Crazy Rows Carignan 2023, Maule Valley, Chile
$17.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – For the bold and adventurous, this polarizing pick is definitely one to stir up conversation. With a nose that’s equal parts ash, straw, dried herbs, rosebud, wildflower and plum, it’s as intriguing as it is unique. Named after old vines growing in jagged rows, the wine may be a touch underripe but that only adds to its charm. A stylish, boundary-pushing bottle at an accessible price.

Peacock’s Fan Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2022, South Australia, Australia
$17.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
Sara d’Amato – Pleasure-inducing grenache is at the forefront of this rich red blend from the sun-soaked McLaren Vale. Peppery and botanical with delicate wood spice and a burst of red fruit. Don’t be fooled by its easy-going charm, beneath that smooth, supple exterior lies a deceptively bold, full-bodied and subtly boozy punch.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2021, South Australia, Australia
$18.95, Mark Anthony Group
John Szabo – Wynns’ 2021 Shiraz is drinking well now — fresh, lively and fruity, offering lots of pleasure for the money.
Michael Godel – A shiraz that celebrates the region with apt weight and style, much in the way of Coonawarra’s most famous varietal expression with cabernet sauvignon. Will age well over a three- to four-year run.
David Lawrason – Rich, soft yet quite elegant, almost satiny shiraz, thanks to the winemaking of Sue Hodder. The nose broods with black cherry, licorice, pepper, violet and wood spice. It is full, thick and soft, with very fine talcum tannins. Lots here for $19.

Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$22.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – Just remarkable how Bordeaux reds from the Western Cape are all expressive of this je ne sais quoi owing to ancient geological soils and the corresponding 20th-21st century terroir. Quite classic Stellenbosch style and effect here at a very positive price.
Megha Jandhyala – This Stellenbosch cabernet sauvignon represents excellent value, demonstrating concentration, complexity, balance, and overall quality well above its price point. Its classic flavour profile includes notes of toasted cedar, pencil shavings, dried herbs, and delicious, succulent dark fruit.

La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Côtes Du Rhône Villages 2021, Rhône, France
$27.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – From one of the true “Châteaux” of the southern Rhône, nestled among charming stone villas, this expressive Côtes du Rhône delivers a great deal of swarthy richness despite a cooler vintage. The grenache steels the show in this organic GSM blend, bringing natural spice and luscious red fruit. The tannins are luxuriously smooth while a touch of minerality adds freshness. Bold yet approachable — just don’t let it get too warm.

Tenuta Fizzano Il Crocino Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$37.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
Michael Godel – Kudos to Vintages for its deft hand in releasing a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione at just the precise moment where it begins readying for ideal consumption. The mix of fruit and acidity is right there, right now, “tutti insieme” as they like to say.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a complex, layered, gently maturing Chianti Classico that has entered its ideal drinking window. I love how savoury, floral and fruity flavours are in a graceful and engaging dance here. The supple, warm and balanced palate is also appealing.

Muga Selección Especial 2019, Rioja, Spain
$55.95, Vinexx
John Szabo – An excellent vintage from this reliable and consistent producer, comfortably premium, offering a heady amalgam of aromas and flavours in the traditional Rioja idiom, also notable and impressive density and mention length. Best 2027–40.
Sara d’Amato – This seductive, cellar-worthy Selección Especial Rioja made from tempranillo with blending partners of garnacha and graciano, is aged a whopping 26 months, entirely in French oak followed by a further 18 months in bottle. Hearty but not unrefined, with a substantial deal of fresh fruit, oak spice and ready-to-tame tannins.
Megha Jandhyala – A serious, age-worthy red, this dense and concentrated Rioja is the product of a vintage rated “excellent” by the Rioja Consejo. It is rich and smooth like satin silk, intricately integrated, and saturated with oak spices, vanilla, and fresh and dried flowers and fruit. It is beautiful now but can also be cellared for about a decade.

R. López De Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain
$73.60, John Hanna & Sons
David Lawrason – Another classic, aged Tondonia that is full of cedar, tobacco and leather, but still very much alive and poised, with dried cherry and sundried tomato fruit. The aromatic intensity and length are excellent. But the grace and harmonies that age has wrought are the key messages in this bottle.

That’s all for this report, see you ’round the next bottle.

John Szabo, MS

Use these quick links for access to all of our March 29th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – March 29th
Lawrason’s Take – March 29th
Megha’s Picks – March 29th
Michael’s Mix – March 29th
Sara’s Selections – March 29th

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