Buyer’s Guide to Vintages February 15th Release
Trump Drives a Wedge into the Canada-U.S. Wine Friendship
By David Lawrason, with notes John Szabo and Sara d’Amato
WineAlign will continue to review American wines while they are sold through the LCBO. We are unanimous on this. Our job is to review available wines no matter where they come from. It is then up to each of us to purchase US wine or not according to our conscience.
If you decide not to buy American but still hanker for big, rich, winter-warming, hot-climate cabs and shiraz, there are some very good buys from Australia, which is featured in this release. There are also a couple of dandy cooler climate Aussie pinot noirs, and a clutch of intriguing semillon-based whites. Australia is not stuck in the past, folks, in fact resurfacing as one of the most dynamic regions in the world.
And if you are now buying Canadian-only, there is a very good buy in the Le Clos Jordanne 2021 Villages Pinot Noir, and a very good value Trius 2023 Distinction Chardonnay.
Before we get to our other picks, I want to return to the Canada-U.S. situation, and why it is so difficult for the wine community.
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The major wine producing states of California, Washington and Oregon — responsible for about 90% of American wine — are staunchly blue or democrat states that did not vote Trump. It has been suggested that Canada might even want to annex them as our 13th, 14th and 15th provinces/territories. Show me that petition!
Interestingly, the other top ten largest wine producing states — New York, Vermont and Virginia — are blue states, too. The other four were swing states that went red this time, Michigan (by less than 100,000 votes), Pennsylvania (by 100,000 votes), Ohio and Kentucky. There is perhaps a conclusion to be drawn linking wine culture, liberal mindedness and inclusion.
In recent days, I have spoken with wine industry representatives in California and Oregon, who feel the threatened tariffs against Canada and potential retaliatory tariffs and consumer boycotts are a disaster. “We are devasted by how this is all playing out,” wrote one. Not least of which because Canada is their largest export market.
Speaking for myself, and I suspect for some of them too, it goes deeper than market shares. I have literally spent many months, perhaps even years, of my time and energy over my 40-year career visiting and tasting at wineries and teaching and writing about American wine on the west coast and in New York, as a journalist, friend and neighbour. And as a critic too, especially of late, as the price/quality gap has yawned wider and the cheaper wines get sweeter.
So, it makes me even more incensed that Donald Trump — a heartless fascist in my view — is driving this wedge between friends and families and business associates in Canada and the U.S. Unfortunately, boycotting American wine is low-hanging fruit, and a high-impact protest politically. A Nanos poll Monday said 90% of Canadians would boycott American alcohol.
So with serious sadness and anger, and with apologies to my American friends, I must stand with Canadians on this. I will personally boycott the purchase of American wine, while continuing to do my job.
Buyer’s Guide February 15th: White Wines
Trius Distinction Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, Andrew Peller Limited
David Lawrason – This is a slim and well-balanced chardonnay. It shows lifted quite toasty, dried onion crisp notes with subtle butter/cream and wood spice. I like the lighter, tighter line without skimping on flavour. Very good value.
Rabl Langenlois Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kamptal, Austria
$18.95, Vintage Trade Wine
David Lawrason – Such a reliable, delicious grüner and textbook grüner. The nose shows impressive fragrance with peach, lemon zest and florality. It is medium weight, broad yet lively, with a hint of spritz, fine lacy acidity and perfectly pitched 12% alcohol.
Sankt Annaberg 355 Nn Riesling 2022, Pfalz, Germany
$23.55, Signature Wines & Spirits Ltd.
David Lawrason – From an historic winery and hotel property set in a forest high on the slopes of the Pfalz, this organically grown, off-dry riesling shows Pfalz richness and delicacy. It is only 12% but feels richer, thanks to very well-balanced flavour intensity and some sweetness. The acidity and length are excellent.
Sara d’Amato – This organic riesling from the Pfalz, grown at 355 m above sea level, dances on the edge of off-dry with a perfect balance. Its first impression is lush with notes of lime and Turkish delight, contrasted with the subtle bitterness of green almond and salty brine. A wine of notable dimension and complexity.
Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Semillon 2023, New South Wales, Australia
$23.95, Select Wine Merchants
John Szabo – Arch-classic Hunter Valley semillon here from stalwarts Tyrrell’s, one of the originators of this excellent genre, once known as “Hunter valley Riesling.” This is surprisingly genteel and approachable in youth — often it takes at least 8 to 10 years for these wines to show their merit, but here the fruit is quite ripe and forward, and starting to develop ahead of the historic curve. Although tasty now, I’d still suggest awaiting the more developed and interesting version, after about 2028.
David Lawrason – This is beautifully structured and balanced, with precise and pristine aromas of fresh fig, green banana peel, wax and fresh herbs. It is medium-full bodied but not at all heavy. Nicely firm and impeccably balance with 12% alcohol. Loved it with fish tacos. Will age years.
Sara d’Amato – A wine full of energy, with a demure elegance that hints at the depth to come. Though it feels restrained now, there’s a sense of anticipation — a gradual ascent toward its full potential over the next 5 to 10 years. Sapid and saline and with a swell of stone fruit waiting to emerge. Stock up while you can and hold.
Trimbach Réserve Riesling 2022, Alsace, France
$43.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – Standard-bearer Trimbach delivers a wine of genuine depth and class, fully dry, as is the house style, with superb length; I mean, the finish reverberates for some minutes. Drinking well now, but cellar into the mid 2030s without concern.
Sara d’Amato – Dry riesling fans take note: As the largest owners of Grand Cru vineyards in Alsace, accounting for a third of their production, Trimbach is a benchmark producer of the region. This particular cuvée blends from several distinguished sites including the estate’s own 45+ year-old vines in Ribeauvillé, 50+ year-old vines in Bergheim, as well as a selection from the Grand Cru Altenberg. Along with notable grape pedigree under the cork, you can count on Trimbach’s quintessentially dry profile and as a result of exceptional balance.
Buyer’s Guide February 15th: Red Wines
Edoardo Miroglio Soli Pinot Noir 2021, Bulgaria, World
$14.95, PV W&S
Sara d’Amato – Edoardo Mirolglio, an Italian textile manufacturer with a fascination for the wines of Burgundy, set out to find a region in Bulgaria with similar potential for grape-growing. His search led him to the small region of Elonovo in the Eastern Thracian Valley where, in 2002, he founded the winery along with a team of Italian and Bulgarian oenologists. With such an eclectic blend of talent, grapes and terroir, it is no surprise that this wine offers such a spastic spectrum of flavours. Aromatic layers of dried herbs, wildflowers, pepper, juniper and laurel are complemented by hints of tomato leaf, ripe cherry and orange zest. Engaging, highly drinkable, and more complex than you’d expect for the price.
David Lawrason – Surprisingly authentic modern pinot noir for the price!
Parajes Del Valle Monastrell 2022, Jumilla, Spain
$15.95, ICON FINE WINE AND SPIRITS (Select Wine Merchants)
John Szabo – The trendy packaging, complete with paint marker, hand-written ‘label’ and wax capsule, translates into an equally trendy, and delicious, pure monastrell, crafted in a lighter, zestier, more herbal style at a very attractive price. If it were listed at $30, I wouldn’t have batted a lid. Drink or hold 3 to 5 years — so much to like here.
Montgras Antu Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Maipo Valley, Chile
$19.95, Charton Hobbs
Sara d’Amato – A sapid cabernet sauvignon from the single vineyard Las Araucarias in the Alto Maipo. Salty with fresh black fruit, violets and a hint of graphite. The wine offers a succulent impression on the palate along with potent energy and gently defining tannins. Well-composed and a delight to drink now.
Tierra Sagrada Vigno Carignan 2020, Maule Valley, Chile
$21.95, Charton Hobbs
John Szabo – VIGNO, short for Vignadores de Carignan, is, by the association’s own definition, a dry-farmed, old-vine, carignan-led blend from the Maule Valle, here rendered by the Rothschild team as a dense and concentrated, well-balanced essence of the variety, wild and free. Lots of wine, and pleasure, here for the money. Drink or hold into the early 2030s.
David Lawrason – The carignan grape hails from the south of France and north of Spain, so it likes Chile’ Mediterranean climate as well. This could be a Spanish Priorat or Montsant. It is quite full bodied, ripe, dense and powerful. The nose shows stewed red cherry/pomegranate with resinous green herbs, fennel and granitic minerality. It is full bodied, dense and roiling.
Thompson Steer Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, South Australia, Australia
$22.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
David Lawrason – This is a new label to me, based in the cooler Coonawarra and Limestone Coast regions of South Australia. This shows that classic, lifted blackcurrant and menthol signature. It is medium-full bodied, fairly smooth, dense and warming. A value buy.
I Sodi Chianti Classico Riserva 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$23.95, VinoLuna
David Lawrason – From a top vintage, and best served before the end of the decade, this Chianti Classico offers notable structure and youthful integrity. Firm but not astringent tannins, the wine is elevated by acids and features plentiful red cherry fruit and hints of leather.
Rob Dolan White Label Pinot Noir 2022, Victoria, Australia
$29.95, ROY + CO. SELECTIONS INC.
David Lawrason – This has all kinds of energy and intensity, yet balance and finesse. The nose shows lifted red pinot cherry, rose, fresh herbs and fine barrel toast, all beautifully integrated. It is medium bodied, almost juicy yet bold, with balanced acidity, alcohol and tannin.
Sara d’Amato – The richness of this cooler-climate Yarra Valley pinot noir is beautifully cut by a marked degree of freshness. Chokecherry clafoutis, brambly garrigue, and silky tannins mark the palate. A solid value given its complexity and substantial length.
Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$30.00, Arterra Wines Canada
John Szabo – Like the 2021 Village Chardonnay from LCJ, the pinot is a lovely, balanced and succulent wine, back on the cool-climate track after the more burly 2020s. It pours a proper pale red and delivers classic tart red berry fruit with a touch of pot pourri, in the typical Ontario style. I’d chill lightly and enjoy over the next year or two — no need for longer-term cellaring.
Pian Delle Querci Brunello Di Montalcino 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$45.95, La Cantina Imports
David Lawrason – This evolving Brunello is showing all kinds of complexity — embers, leather, cedar, beef carpaccio and wood spice around the raspberry currant fruit. It is medium full bodied, intensely flavoured and richly textured but not too soft or heavy. There is a great core here and outstanding length.
John Szabo – A Brunello of savoury, saliva-inducing qualities; I like the drinkability, the authenticity, the value. Decant if serving in the near future or hold until 2032 or so.
Buyer’s Guide February 15th: Fortified Wines
Perez Barquero Gran Barquero Amontillado, Spain
$49.95, Christopher Stewart Wine & Spirits
David Lawrason – This delicious Amontillado is not from Jerez, but from an inland, higher altitude region called Montilla-Moriles, which expresses more ripeness and tropicality. It is chock-full of apricot and cantaloupe with maple walnut, all kinds of wood spice and a hint of earthy oxidation after ageing a solera for 25 years. It is full bodied, almost creamy yet bone dry, gunned by 19% alcohol.
Graham’s Quinta Dos Malvedos Vintage Port 2010, Douro, Portugal
$34.95, Mark Anthony Group
John Szabo – Port lovers rejoice! Tasted from 375 ml bottle, Grahams’ singled quinta Malvedos 2010 is showing fine development at this stage, rich and ripe, treacly, with high intensity and exceptional length. A seriously fine bottle for the price. Best from 2030 on.
And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return in two weeks with a review of Vintages March 1 release.
Use these quick links for access to all of our February 15th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – February 15th
Lawrason’s Take – February 15th
Sara’s Selections – February 15th
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