Buyers Guide to Vintages April 25th Release
The LCBO Enters “Future State Modernization”
By David Lawrason with notes by John Szabo, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala
The April 25 Vintages release is billed as Fresh Faces, and includes several new wines, which is always welcome. But it is bit of an odd-duck release — with a gaggle of excellent, compelling, high-end European and Canadian wines achieving solid scores in the 92- to 95-point range, then many low-hanging <$20 wines in the 85- to 88-point range, with not much in between score- and price-wise.
So, I am wondering if we are starting to see a gradual shift in the role of Vintages, with the LCBO having passed the historic April 1 milestone on its journey into a new era it is calling Future State Modernization. I attended an AIDV Canadian Wine Law Conference last week that delved into all kinds of issues around wine in Canada, and the LCBO’s new state of being was high on the agenda.
A lot officially happened April 1 within the LCBO and Ontario beverage alcohol retailing system, although it is not as Orwellian as Future State Modernization sounds. One commentator described it as “the complete re-wiring of LCBO systems as it moves into a modern alcohol retail environment”
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Another called it “an honest effort to turn the Queen Mary around,” referring to a famous comment by a former CEO Andy Brandt that changing the LCBO was like trying to turn the Queen Mary around in Toronto Harbour. Well, the transition has certainly shuffled the deck chairs and, at least temporarily, frustrated the LCBO’s suppliers and buyers.
Two major government-directed policy changes are the tugboats of this change.
First, as foretold months ago, the LCBO is now the sole wholesaler of alcohol in the province, with every product having to pass through its books to be taxed, even if products can physically move through an approved agent or winery and be drop-shipped direct to licensees or individual consumers.
Second, a new wholesale pricing formula will be applied to all products. It will begin with the supplier’s cost, then add markups and taxes and fees. Which is very much a standard approach in the business, but different from what existed prior.
Also, retailers are now entirely free to set their own prices. Uniform pricing in Ontario will disappear, and price competition among retailers will become a big thing. We can expect prices to increase overall (do they ever decrease?) but by how much remains to be seen.
And there are two other set pieces that will raise prices as well, if not by a lot, and this will be most felt within the realm of the least-expensive wines. Part of the new policy mandate is a small increase in the minimum retail price, and there is also a new warehouse handling fee. Premium wines in the Vintages realm should not increase by much.
In terms of selection, LCBO buyers will still be selecting and buying wines for LCBO stores and for a wholesale catalogue from which retailers may order. But other products can also be selected by grocers, convenience stores and bottle shops, as long as they have been financially wholesaled through the LCBO. We are in transition to an “open-listing” environment — finally.
There is only the stipulation that when it comes to wine, 40% must be from Ontario wineries and 10% of that must be from small wineries. This has actually existed since wine in grocery stores was first introduced.
So, between pricing and selection we are entering a new era of retail choice and competition, which has always been the government’s end game of allowing private stores.
What becomes interesting is that the LCBO itself is now in direct retail competition with larger grocery chains and the Costcos of this world. And with its high cost of unionized labour and a large inventory of leased and owned stores, how well will it do as a retailer? How will it position itself; how will it differentiate from the competition? Can it get over its historic monopolistic mindset and be nimble?
It is still firmly anchored by its monopoly on spirits retailing. But in the wine sector, what will happen as supermarkets and convenience stores sell more and more inexpensive wine, competing with LCBOs General List — and perhaps selling for less? There are now about 7,500 points of alcohol retail distribution in Ontario, a figure recently quoted by Drinks Ontario, the association of suppliers to the LCBO.
At the AIDV symposium, it was suggested, again by Drinks Ontario director, Jim Lisser, that we might see fine wine through Vintages become one of the LCBOs competitive differentiators.
The Vintages Essentials list of well over 100 medium-priced, large-volume wines has now been moved into the wholesale catalogue as well, thus they are destined to show up at grocery. And the Vintages program has already been reduced in terms of breadth of store availability.
So, it might be entirely plausible that Vintages shrinks to be a more condensed retailer of more interesting, smaller lots of a much wider array of premium wines that other big retailers won’t be as willing to handle. Although small, independent fine-wine bottle shops certainly will.
This would be welcome. Vintages has seemed purpose-conflicted and almost aimless for quite some time, being pushed and pulled between the general list and “Classics” models. It has been sitting in a rather boring middle ground — and it deserves to be better.
Which brings me back to the original observation that this current release has at least a dozen very interesting, “new” and high-scoring wines. It may be coincidence, or maybe not.
We present our picks in ascending price order.
Buyer’s Guide Vintages April 25: Sparkling
Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2018, Ontario, Canada
$49.95, Family Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – The newest vintage of this Niagara classic follows evenly in the footsteps of the 2017 and previous editions. There is such a sense of generosity, tenderness and purity here. Chardonnay all the way with apple pie, custard, lemon, yellow flowers and fine toastiness on the nose. It is medium weight, gentle and rounded — tender and poised, with excellent length.
Michael Godel – The time is always right to taste Cuvée Catherine. Case in point and again with 2018, perhaps the most decadent of them all.
Buyer’s Guide Vintages April 25: White
Château De La Grange Vieilles Vignes Côtes De Grand Lieu Muscadet Sur Lie 2023, Loire, France
$15.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – A crisp and crunchy, broadly appealing white wine for an improbably low price, this Muscadet tastes of sea breezes and sunny citrus orchards! I would serve it alongside fish and chips or freshly made pakoras.
Ktima Tselepos Blanc De Gris 2024, Peloponnese, Greece
$28.95, Le Maitre de Chai
John Szabo – Made from the pink-skinned, aromatic moschophilero grape native to the Peloponnese, this is well-done wine from one of the leaders in the region. It delivers all the rosewater and lychee fruit one could hope for in a gewürztraminer-like aromatic profile, but with more slender and zesty palate with a light CO2 spritz to add freshness.
Cave Spring CSV Cave Spring Vineyard Estate Grown Riesling 2023, Ontario, Canada
$34.95, Cave Spring Cellars
John Szabo – A remarkable wine with genuine concentration and depth, always among Canada’s best examples of riesling. I find it delicious now, but I would also like to see it in ten-plus years for a different, mature take.
David Lawrason – This is a serious white wine, an observation that suggests it is something beyond the common perception of riesling. It is certainly excellent to outstanding quality when looking at complexity, balance and depth. But it somehow goes beyond by harmonizing, integrating and understating everything. Old vines in full flex. A five-star value steal.
Michael Godel – A CSV with guts and bones, a riesling of trenchant intention and utility. A wine of a season, always with a rootedness to the Niagara Escarpment.
Megha Jandhyala – Cave Spring’s top riesling elucidates the distinctiveness of Ontario’s terroir fluently. Given its brilliant acidity and delicate sweetness, it will pair well with rich, vibrant foods, including creamy, spice-infused paneer makhani or Indonesian crab curry.
JoieFarm En Famille Reserve Chardonnay 2022, British Columbia, Canada
$42.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – En Famille is still shining, singing and delivering the familial goods. Longevity predicted is durability expressed in chardonnay.
Cloudsley Twenty Mile Bench Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$36.95, Connexion Oenophilia
David Lawrason – A rich and elegant chardonnay with complex hazelnut, popcorn kernel, peach, nutmeg and lemon peel. It is medium bodied, firm yet elastic in texture. Flavour focus, intensity and length are impressive.
Rudolf Rabl Ried Loiserberg Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kamptal, Austria
$36.95, Vintage Trade Wine
Megha Jandhyala – The most alluring features of this single vineyard grüner veltliner are its concentrated flavours and rich, silken texture. I would pair this wine with a buttery lobster roll for an indulgent and harmonious meal.
Waldschütz Ried Gaisberg 1ötw Riesling Kamptal 2022, Kamptal, Austria
$58.95, Wine Alliance
David Lawrason -This pours medium deep yellow gold. The nose is very engaging with apricot, honey, spice and fresh herbs. It is medium bodied, off-dry and so nicely underpinned with fine acidity. The focus and length are excellent to outstanding. A contemplative wine for a summer evening!
Bachelder Wismer Wingfield Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$60.00, S. Schiralli (Ponte)
John Szabo – Showing terrifically now, this is a dense and intense, pure and concentrated chardonnay from a great site no doubt, emerging as one of the top vineyards for the variety in this chardonnay-centric appellation.
David Lawrason – Morphing into mature golden shades, this rich, poised and elegant chardonnay is drinking at its best. The nose is almost opulent, with hazelnut, crème brulee, loads of nutmeg, peach pie, candlewax and toast. The texture is silky with lacy underlying acidity. The length is outstanding.
Buyer’s Guide Vintages April 25: Red Wines
Novus Altitude Syrah Merlot Agiorgitiko 2023, Peloponnese, Greece
$17.95, Amphoreus Wines Inc
John Szabo – A soft, fruity, easy-drinking red, fairly priced and quite delicious, especially with a light chill. The blend works well.
Château Monplaisir Fût De Chêne Bergerac 2019, Southwest, France
$17.95, Old Cellar Collection
John Szabo – The packaging says “premium” (even if the bottle is unnecessarily heavy for a sub-$20 wine, or any wine for that matter) but, more importantly, the wine inside is serious, developing well at this stage and at a fine crossroads of fruit and earth. You could put this on the dinner table for guests and claim it’s a $30 bottle and no one, not even the wine snobs in your circle, would be the wiser.
David Lawrason – This punches way above its price. It is merlot-based blend from an appellation astride Bordeaux, with generous nose of raspberry, tobacco, cedar, nuttiness and stems. It is medium bodied, even and well with very good length for $17. A budget cellar selection.
Anthonij Rupert Optima 2021, Western Cape, South Africa
$34.95, Vinexx
Michael Godel – Fruit, acid, tannin, clarity and balance all wrapped up in an intelligible Cape blend. The wine has come to a great moment and will live there for up to a decade.
Domaine Queylus Droite 2023, Ontario, Canada
$45.70, Marchands des Ameriques
John Szabo – Domaine Queylus’s merlot-based blend inspired by Bordeaux’s right bank (“Droite”) is a sultry and supple wine in 2023, beautifully concentrated and shapely, with velvety tannins and a fine balance of fruit and savour. Everything lines up as it should; drink now or hold into the mid-thirties.
Tolaini Montebello Sette Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$52.95, Banville Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – From a Canadian-owned estate in southern Tuscany comes a full-on, long-aged, single-vineyard Gran Selezione. The nose is crammed with complex aromas of roasted chestnuts, dried cedary wood, vanillin, raspberry jam and violet. It is full bodied and mouth-filling, with all kinds of power and breadth.
Ricasoli Castello Di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Docg 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$49.95, The Case For Wine
John Szabo – From the outstanding 2021 vintage, this is a beauty of a wine, savoury and tense in the Gaiole style, stress-free and without hard edges, and also without losing the rugged appeal of stony sangiovese. Drink 2027 to 2038 or so.
David Lawrason – What’s going on at Ricasoli? One of the larger houses of Tuscany has turned in a second great performance at Vintages in as many months. This is a very fine, sophisticated, proper and elegant, with perfect acid balance, some heat and finely chiseled tannins. Enjoy now with some aeration or hold into the early 2030s.
Michael Godel – Was a structured Gran Selezione and continues to be. A mix of airtime and wood-fired grilled protein (i.e., Bistecca Fiorentina) would elevate the experience.
Megha Jandhyala – This masterfully made, captivatingly layered Gran Selezione is a prize at less than $50! I love its savoury character and impeccable balance. Polished and poised, this wine is ready to drink now but can safely be cellared for the next decade.
Domaine Gerovassiliou Avaton 2022, Macedonia, Greece
$58.95, Le Maitre de Chai
John Szabo – Gerovassilou’s top red is a blend of indigenous varieties limnio, mavroudi and mavrotragano from northern Greece, and proof positive that they can stand next to the world’s best. The 2022 is still very youthful, but knowing the track record of this wine, it will emerge beautifully in time. Best 2028 to 2040.
Bachelder Wismer Parke Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023, Ontario, Canada
$65.00, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
Megha Jandhyala – Bachelder’s Wismer Parke is a consummate Niagara pinot noir made by a winemaker of singular passion. Its texture is a bewitching undulation of curves powered by chiffon tannins and deceptively firm acidity, while its flavour profile is delicate yet radiant and enduring.
And that’s a wrap for this edition. We will see you again for the May 9 Vintages release. – David
Use these quick links for access to all of our April 25th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – April 25th
Lawrason’s Take – April 25th
Megha’s Picks – April 25th
Michael’s Mix – April 25th
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