Buyer’s Guide to Vintages April 13th Release
Ontario Highlights, The Okanagan Freeze, Oregon Pinot Re-Visited
By David Lawrason with notes from Sara d’Amato, Megha Jandhyala and Michael Godel
So far, the spring of 2024 has been a weather potpourri, as spring is supposed to be in Ontario. It feels comfortably normal. Vintages April 13 magazine takes on this toothsome topic under the banner of perfect pairings with the various spring dining scenarios. But I want to move right along with items reflecting what’s more importantly going on right now regarding the heights being achieved by Ontario wine, and the impact of the Okanagan freeze in B.C. Also, please note that Michael has filed a comprehensive report on newly released crop of nebbiolo-based wines from Barolo and Barbaresco in Piedmont.
First, still tethered to Vintages April 13 release, Hidden Bench Estate Winery is featured with four wines, being re-released and offered at somewhat reduced prices until April 28. Hidden Bench took Winery of the Year honours at the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. This was a huge win for owner Harald Thiel and his talented team, with a slew of platinum, gold and silver medals for his wines from organically farmed, single vineyards on Beamsville Bench that are now producing in their prime, many over 30 years of age. The four featured wines are estate wines, mostly from younger plantings on the 32-hectare site. They are clarion examples of the bright style and excellent quality now taking hold within Niagara’s core varieties — chardonnay, riesling, pinot noir, gamay and cabernet franc (and blends thereof).
That same message was front and centre last week at the opening of The Grapes for Humanity Canada auction that raises funds for climate action causes like Tree Canada, The Halo Trust and Nature Conservancy Canada. Nineteen Ontario winemakers collaborated to create seven “For the Heart” wines that are on auction in mixed and whole cases until April 22 by Waddington’s among dozens of international collectors’ items.
Like the Hidden Bench wines, the seven For the Heart wines are singularly and historically important expressions of their varietals. I tasted all and draw your attention to the For the Heart 2023 Gamay created by Eliza Mazzi of Malivoire, Jeff Moote of Divergence and Jessica Solnaki of Southbrook, as well as the Pinot Noir 2022 by Kelly Mason and Thomas Bachelder. The auction also features magnums of previous vintages of superb For the Heart Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 2021, 2020, 2019, with fruit from several wineries blended and crafted by Thomas Bachelder. There are also two magnums of B.C. White and Red up for sale. It is an impressive tableau.
The Okanagan Freeze
I was in Kelowna for three days earlier this month, where I met with a handful of winemakers in the north Okanagan and discussed the impacts of the disastrous January 20 freeze out that has all but wiped out the 2024 vintage. The next days of bud break will reveal how much vineyard has suffered permanent damage, which will require replanting and set those vineyards back years. Much of the impact is still to be decided — on a site-by-site basis — but here is what is happening already.
Dozens of wineries are said to be up for sale — I don’t have factual numbers. Some vineyards are already being ripped out, notably sites previously affected by the freezes that beset the region before the 2023 and 2002 vintages. Most however are in wait and see mode.
Wine brokers from the U.S. and Ontario are calling on B.C. wineries offering to sell them fruit and wine (next-door Washington is reported to have a large wine surplus). For now, importation can only be done by the larger B.C. wineries with commercial licenses, but land-based wineries are preparing to apply for commercial licenses and hope government bureaucracy will move expeditiously to grant them this, if only on a temporary basis.
Some fear that using imported wine will dilute, or even eventually drown the identity of B.C. wine, and confuse consumers en route. So, there is much debate about what is essentially a labelling issue. Obviously, the B.C. VQA designation should disappear from these labels but, to me, that is not enough visual guidance for consumers. A new “certification of origin” plan has been developed that is being discussed by the powers that be as we speak. Nothing is yet decided but the authorities need to act PDQ. Meanwhile, those who are, or envision, replanting, are thinking about new varieties, clones and locations that will provide more climate surety, and hoping they can find the vine material required.
I will continue to report on this situation, hopefully with more clarity by the time the National Wine Awards roll around in June. Meantime, wine stocks are plentiful in the Okanagan this year following the bumper, very good 2022 vintage, and a drop in sales last year thanks to a tourism ban during forest fire season. The Okanagan is open for business as usual this summer and needs our support to brace for the future.
Oregon Re-Visited
I had stopped in Kelowna en route home from five days in the Willamette Valley of Oregon, where I was plotting a tour next April for a group donating to a Canada’s Great Kitchen Party fundraiser. I had not been in Oregon for at least 15 years, and the scope of the industry was mind-boggling, with over 900 wineries therein (more than in all of Canada). The majority are making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley southwest of Portland, which is now vying with Central Otago in New Zealand as top new world pinot hot spot. I tasted about 50 pinots while in Oregon then returned home to keep on going at the Oregon and Washington State Trade Tasting in Toronto April 8.
The Oregon pinot style is a bit more ripe — darker fruit, lower acid and softer texture — than Burgundy or Canadian pinots. But they are not as ripe and sweet-edged as California versions, which Oregonians are quick to point out. And they are very focused on terroir-driven samples based on the soils and aspects within the Willamette’s 12 sub-appellations. So little Oregon wine is available in Ontario that I have not really been paying attention over the years, but I am now recognizing the tension and depth of the cooler-climate character of Eola-Amity Hills, the strawberry- cherry softness and openness of the classic volcanic red-soiled Dundee Hills, and the darker fruit and elegance of the wines from Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge and the Chehalem Mountains.
I wish more Oregon pinots were available at Vintages to point you to specific examples. But I can list very good producers who are represented in Ontario and let you check out their agents’ consignment and perhaps their bottle shop offerings: Domain Drouhin (Philippe Dandurand), Archery Summit (Lifford), Cristom (Profile), Solena and Hyland (Nicolas Pearce), Adelsheim (Mark Anthony), Bledsoe McDaniels (Halpern), Sokol Blosser (Noble Estates) and Lingua Franca (Arterra). The very good, representative Westmount 2021 Pinot Noir is upcoming on Vintages April 27 release.
Picks from the April 13 Releases
So now on to our picks from the April 13 release, with a personal nod to some lovely, aromatic, spring-like whites. Wines are arranged in ascending price order.
Garzón Pinot Rosé De Corte 2023, Uruguay, World
$19.95, Mark Anthony Group
Megha Jandhyala – Those looking to explore a new corner of the world should try this well-made, delicious rosé from Uruguay. A blend of pinot noir, merlot, and marselan, it is equal parts fruity and delightfully savoury, with a sense of freshness and purity that is very becoming. It should pair well with sushi, especially spicy maki rolls.
Buyer’s Guide April 13: Whites
Rudi Rüttger Le Tendre Riesling 2022, Pfalz, Germany
$16.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – Excellent value in an expressive, well balanced and complex riesling from the southerly Pfalz region. The nose shows quite lifted apricot, pineapple, honey, yellow flowers and a grassy note. It is light to medium bodied (11%) barely off dry, smooth yet tart-edged.
Skouras Moscofilero 2022, Peloponnese, Greece
$19.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
David Lawrason – Expect a highly aromatic, exotic nose of lavender, orange blossom and green melon. Very muscat-like. It is bright, lively and quite intense with racy acidity, a hint of sweetness and warming alcohol. Compelling and satisfying.
Sara d’Amato – The pink-skinned moscofilero grape (hence the name “blanc de gris”) is typically quite perfumed but this expression is somewhat tempered with impressive poise and a compelling tapestry of flavours that includes lemon tea, nettle, jasmine and even a hint of ginger. Dry and taught with plenty of food pairing potential including shrimp ceviche or semi-soft cheeses.
Megha Jandhyala – A sweet-scented, charismatic white wine made with indigenous Greek variety moscofilero/moschofilero, this is a great choice if you are looking for something a little off the beaten track. It is appealingly juicy and gently fleshy and salty, displaying a heady mix of aromas and flavours, including lychees, citrus fruit, honeysuckle, Indian tuberose, and toast.
Radford Dale Vinum Chenin Blanc 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$19.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a distinctive chenin blanc from old bush vines growing in granitic soils in the foothills of the Helderberg Mountain in Stellenbosch. Balanced, perfumed, and expressing variety and place eloquently, it also represents excellent value.
Domaine Du Pré Baron Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Loire, France
$20.95, The Case For Wine
Michael Godel – Just about as modern, fleshy and full-bodied as sauvignon blanc gets from Touraine. Money well spent will be dollars rewarded.
Terres Secrètes Les Préludes Mâcon Villages 2021, Burgundy, France
$20.95, Vinexx
Sara d’Amato – As a result of a cool, low-yielding vintage in Burgundy, this southern-grown chardonnay is atypically vibrant. Mid-weight and leesy but not emphatically warm, with complex notes of honeycomb, hay, green apple, toast, olive oil, and lemon custard.
Tawse Limestone Ridge North Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$21.95, Tawse
Michael Godel – One of the most recognizable rieslings made in Ontario which speaks to the Twenty Mile Bench’s Limestone Ridge and also Tawse’s adherence to dealing with this fruit in a most consistent manner. Will age really well.
David Lawrason – This is a very impressive riesling with lifted aromas of petrol, crushed pineapple, lemonade and a touch of evergreen. It carries the same intensity on the palate with great acidity, offset by some sweetness. Very lemony on the finish. The length is excellent.
Bodega Garzón Reserva Albariño 2023, Uruguay, World
$23.95, Mark Anthony Group
Sara d’Amato – A zinger of an albariño at a steal of a price with a lively aromatic character brimming with white pepper, ginger, pear, and lemongrass. Vinified in stainless steel with several months of aging on the lees contributing to the notable depth of flavour on the palate.
Michael Godel – The leading and by far the biggest winery in Uruguay. Offers a unique and definitive mix of white flowers, mineral and pulpy fruit. There is a salty quality but this ’23 is about as lush, luxe and able bodied as any white wine ever to come from this property.
David Lawrason – From a spectacular property just inland from Atlantic coast, where the climate is similar to the Galician coast of Spain from which the grape originates. It is medium weight, fairly tender and lively but also has power and warmth. Viognier fans will be impressed.
Mastroberardino Falanghina Del Sannio 2022, Campania, Italy
$23.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
David Lawrason – This has bright clean if not very intense nose of banana/pineapple, honeysuckle and and zuchinni. It is medium weight, somewhat creamy with some peppery heat, and a dry spicy and bitter finish.
Michael Godel – A varietal leader from the Sannio denomination and Mastrobernardino delivers its fleshiest iteration from the vintage. Not a svelte one but truly one for sinking your teeth into.
20455, Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2020, VQA Niagara Peninsula
$29.95, Arterra Wines Canada
Megha Jandhyala – The 2020 Jordan Village chardonnay is rich but balanced and saturated with flavour. I like how ripe fruit and oak flavours of vanilla and nutmeg are in consummate harmony here, while a subtle note of wet stones adds nuance.
Buyer’s Guide April 13: Reds
San Alejandro Evodia 2021, Catalonia, Spain
$16.95, Glencairn Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – Straight Aragónese garnacha with good concentration to speak (at least in part) of old vines, low yields and impressive quality once again. Fresh, pure, clean and tidy garnacha in collective respect.
Château Rivière 2020, Languedoc, France
$16.95, Vonterra
Michael Godel – The 20 percent grenache acts to flesh and plump up what might otherwise be a ferric-fisted red but at the end of the day this is syrah held territory and the sort of Languedoc red that stands alone. A reminder that Minervois is a serious appellation from which affordable wines are always available.
Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro 2020, Naoussa, Greece
$18.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
Sara d’Amato – Another Greek find in this release worthy of your attention is a xinomavro from Naoussa that that could be difficult to tell apart from a Langhe nebbiolo. Boutari is a pioneer in the modern Greek wine movement focusing on indigenous varieties from across the country’s most esteemed wine growing regions. Dry and potent, be sure to decant before serving if you can’t hold out another year or two before opening.
Angove Crest Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, South Australia, Australia
$21.95, The Case For Wine
Sara d’Amato – A premium Aussie cabernet feel at a fraction of the price. Sourced from three sites across the McLaren Vale that contribute to a mix of aromatic, robust, and structured character. Particularly captivating are the salinity and ferrous notes that add dimension to the palate.
Laurent Gauthier Grand Cras Vieilles Vignes Morgon 2021, Beaujolais, France
$22.95, The Upstairs Cellar
David Lawrason – This shows the firm more savoury, mineral and meaty expression of Morgon, the village ‘cru’ known to be among the most sturdy and age-worthy gamays of Beaujolais. It falls somewhere between syrah and pinot noir. Expect ripe fruit, charcuterie, fennel and peppery aromas. Flavours carry very impressive focus and depth.
Byron & Harold Rose & Thorns Shiraz 2020, Western Australia, Australia
$21.95, Kylix Wines
David Lawrason – From a cooler corner of southwest Australia this is a very impressive, suave shiraz with a lovely nose of classic black cherry/boysenberry mint, vanillin and spice. It is very smooth, creamy, dense and well balanced, with fine tannin.
Château Des Landes Cuvée Prestige 2019, Bordeaux, France
$23.95, Vineter
Michael Godel – This merlot-based Bordeaux is more substantial and interesting than I expected from its price, and it is achieving a good state of maturity and complexity. It was a warmer vintage creating some ripeness and richness. It is medium weight, glossy, warming and smooth with fine tannin. The length is excellent.
Le Serre Nuove Dell’ornellaia 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$78.95, Mark Anthony Group
Megha Jandhyala – The second wine of acclaimed Tuscan producer, Ornellaia, this is the wine to buy if you are looking for something special on which to splurge this week. The product of an excellent vintage, it is self-possessed, enchanting, and concentrated. Already complex, refined, and elegant, it will only improve with a few years in your cellar.
And that’s a wrap for this edition. John returns in two weeks with our picks from Vintages April 27 release, with its California feature on Paso Robles. And a reminder that the California Wine Fair rolls into the Carlu in Toronto on April 22.
David Lawrason
VP of Wine
Use these quick links for access to all of our Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take
Megha’s Picks
Michael’s Mix
Sara’s Selections
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