Buyer’s Guide to Vintages August 16th Release

A Bushel of Adventurous Late Summer Whites (that are not Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc)

by David Lawrason, with notes from John Szabo MS, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

The cover of the Vintages catalogue offers up a bland main course of Summer Smart Buys, with a side of “Favourite Greek Wines.” I am more pumped than that. I am actually excited by the wide range of whites that offer great diversity, typicity and complexity. They are adventurous alternatives to mainstream chardonnay and sauvignon. And as we anticipate the end of the sweltering summer of 2025 these are wines that will still refresh but offer more weight, character and power for the cooler evenings coming in late August, September and into October.

Let’s begin with Greece, which gets its own section leading off our picks below, and some insights from John Szabo. My overall observation of late is that the quality and value of Greek whites and reds is ascending rapidly, and that stylistically they are delivering wines of tension, structure and a certain of quench — white and red — that really works with Greek cuisine, of course, but also amid the kind of heat we have experienced this summer. And yes, Greece is hot too. So, is there an intrinsic, ancient link to the development of a Greek wine style based on climate? The Muses are musing on this very question as we speak.

I move eagerly to South Africa, and a pair of chenin blanc-based whites by two rock star properties in the interior arid Swartland: Badenhorst and Mullineux. I visited both in one day last December, along with Sadie Family Wines — the holy trinity of wineries that are elevating not only Swartland but all of South Africa on the world stage. They are making wines of great power, dimension and expressiveness, that are among the most expensive in South Africa. Vintages selections are lower tier but still deliver the goods. Don’t hesitate to purchase if still on the shelf.

Next, two surprising Niagara whites. Chateau des Charmes is not often in the forefront in the Niagara discourse, as it goes through transition from ownership by the Bosc family. But the soul of this property has always been the viticultural experimentation that Paul Bosc Sr. did in establishing a vine nursery in the 1980s. One of the varieties that seemed to work was savagnin, a white from the Jura region of sub-alpine France. I remember quite glorious Chateau des Charmes savagnins in the past — made in the oxidative Jura style. This “new” Saviagnin take is brighter, fresher and intriguing flavour wise.

And then there is the “what’s this?” white called Weiss, a virtual label from the Collab Wine & Beverage project housed at Marynissen in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The winemaker is Jeff Moote who has had a coming out recently with his powerful and precise Divergence wines. Weiss is a bright, balanced blend of Niagara-grown viognier, marsanne and pinot gris. The first two varietals are native to southern France, so hardly expected in Niagara. But Moote has sourced them (marsanne is planted at Kew Vineyards on the Beamsville Bench) and rendered a fine, spicy and exotic white.

Segue to the south of France, where Michel Chapoutier and chef Yannick Alleno have delivered a rare (in Ontario) 100% northern Rhone marsanne from the St. Joseph appellation. I was first alerted to the power and potential of solo northern Rhone marsanne during my first visit to Chapoutier way back and have really not experienced many examples since. But this one delivers finesse, elegance and power for a relative song.

From the Rhone over to Northeast Italy, where we find a selection of very good pinot grigios that seem to carry a bit more gravitas and ripeness than the norm. Is this climate change in action, or picking later for more weight, alcohol and almost tropical flavours? Whatever, pinot grigio is seeming less boring than in years passed. There is also an organically grown Soave at a very good price.

And still in northern Italy but moving into the realm of tall bottle aromatic whites there is a terrific dry gewurztraminer from Alto Adige, where it is speculated that gewurz originated. Elsewhere in central Europe, a mature Alsatian sylvaner offers insight into the durability of the rich, dry whites of this warmer northeastern corner of France. While further east at about the same latitude the steep slopes of the Kamptal region along the upper Danube offers a scintillating young, mineral riesling. There is a very elegant, unusual arinto from Portugal’s Vinho Verde. And finally, from New Zealand, the return of the excellent Greywacke Pinot Gris, which is always a cut above.

We do recommend some excellent reds below as well, but this collection of whites simply struck me as an unusually large, diverse and intriguing group to explore at the perfect time of year. Please, proceed to our picks below, arranged as always in ascending price order within the categories.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 16th: Greece

Skouras Wild Ferment Assyrtiko 2024, Peloponnese, Greece
$19.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
David Lawrason -This is a classic assyrtiko — a bold yet elegant dry white with fine herbal lemongrass and tropical fruit aromas. It is medium-full bodied, fairly dense yet so energized, with some heat and bitterness and salinity on the finish. Fine fruit presence here amid all the other intriguing distractions.
Megha Jandhyala – Herbal, citrusy and faintly saline, with a botanical and tonic-water infused finish, this is a familiar and approachable rendition of assyrtiko. At under $20, it also represents good value.
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And that is a wrap for this edition. We will return, with Sara d’Amato back aboard, to review the August 30, Labour Day weekend release.

Use these quick links for access to all of our August 16th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – August 16th
Lawrason’s Take – August 16th
Megha’s Picks – August 16th
Michael’s Mix – August 16th

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