If I Could Buy Only One – January 18th Vintages Release
We asked our writers, “If you could buy only one wine from the January 18th release, which one would it be and why?”
Alain Geoffroy Vau Ligneau Chablis 1er Cru 2022, Burgundy, France
$40.15, EX-Cellars Wine Services
Sara d’Amato – Here’s a thoughtfully crafted Premier Cru Chablis, rich in complexity and engaging – all at a great price, making it a must-try. A refined, subtly leesy style that impresses with feathery acids and a distinctive mineral backbone. The palate offers a whisper of crème fraîche, layered with lemon oil, green apple and a touch of lanolin. Its texture strikes the perfect balance, with enough viscosity to complement its freshness. A standout example from the left bank Premier Cru of Vau-Ligneau.
David Lawrason – I am a real fan of Chablis, and have enjoyed the riper, more fruit driven 2022s of recent months. But this 2022 rings truer to me, more old school, with lower 12% alcohol, tighter acidity and more minerality. So, if its not a vintage thing it must be site and winemaking. It is a from a seldom seen 1er cru climat that was only planted in the 70s. But it is steep sloped above a small brook and based on classic limestone-based soils. This is tender crisp and almost brittle, but not austere – brimming with minerality, both in flavour and texture, along with lemon and green apple. The length is excellent to outstanding.
Megha Jandhyala – My general approach when it comes to wine (and most things really) is that I would rather buy one bottle of a special wine than several bottles of a cheaper, less distinctive one. And so, my “only one” this week is Alain Geoffroy’s 2022 Vau Ligneau Chablis 1er Cru. Simultaneously fleshy and succulent but firm and fresh, concentrated and focussed, yet graceful and poised – this Chablis is all about balance to me. It is low in alcohol, with that classic freshness that seems derived (at least in part) from Kimmeridgian limestone-based soils and a flavour profile that is equal parts supple fruit and stony, mineral tones. I plan on tucking my bottle away in the cellar for a bit and enjoying it at some point before the close of this decade.
Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Sirah 2020, California, Usa
$52.20, Mark Anthony Group
Michael Godel – Talk about the passion – and the jet black, opaque and cimmerian ink! Holy dark as night hue from Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Sirah 2020, Napa Valley to explain the thick and impenetrable nature of truly concentrated petite sirah. Plush and silken panne velvet though reasonable in terms of alcohol, here declared on the label at 14.5 percent. A sleek Petite Sirah without dips, holes or lack of discipline but simply a deepest of resin and sol example that never relents. Not a sipper but a wine you must consider the pairing and consider well. Also the time to open because the tannic chalkiness is not done finished its business. When you do, consider a grilled (on the black-top) rib-eye, kosher salt and ground black pepper only, no creamed peppercorn or any other sauces, just the meat, as is. BTW at this price there are no Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon that can touch this wine. Seriously.
Viña Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Maipo Valley, Chile
$199.10, Escalade Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – My only one this week is a collector’s item, one of Chile’s most reputed and respected wines. It was released at Vintages on Jan 16th at the special price of $199.10 and will soon increase to the regular price of $220, so act now if interested. I’m referring to the 2021 Don Melchor, from Puente Alto in the Maipo Valley, Chile, and it’s the best vintage yet made of this wine since its debut in 1987. Don Melchor has been produced since 2019 as a completely separate operation from the rest of Concha y Toro with its own team and the original terroir, farmed organically on classic gravelly Maipo soils. The final blend this year is composed of 93% cabernet sauvignon, 4% cabernet franc and 3% merlot, aged in 68% new oak and beautifully integrated. 2021 was a cool year, below the historic average, and near perfect; it delivers a spectacular nose of ripe, fresh black fruit, perfectly formed and shaped, while the palate is silky, velvety, beautifully proportioned, with superb length and complexity. I have to say, it’s a magnificent wine, seamless and sophisticated, a wine of supreme refinement and hedonism. It drinks surprisingly well even at this young stage, and won’t need years in the cellar, though the drinking window will be long no doubt, stretching into the late ’30s and ‘40s.
Use these quick links for access to all of our January 18th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – January 18th
Megha’s Picks – January 18th
Michael’s Mix – January 18th
Sara’s Selections – January 18th
