Buyer’s Guide to Vintages September 21st Release

Settling Scores
By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala

Vintages Sept 21 release publication highlights “High Scoring Wines.” I rise to the bait like a bass at sunrise.

I don’t want to get too deep on all the issues around score-flation, credibility of sources and the damage that wonky scoring is doing to the integrity not only of wine criticism but of the retailers like the LCBO who use the scores. I do want to re-state our position at WineAlign (below) and help our readers — especially new ones — navigate the scoring minefield.

The single most useful navigational tool at your disposal is the price-score relationship. When you see very high 90s scores for inexpensive wines be very wary. There are some egregious examples on this release. Gandarada 2020 Dao from Portugal scoring 95 with a price tag of $13.95. Zonte’s Footsteps 2020 Vermentino from Australia scoring 98 at $18.95. Chateau Candeley 2020 Bordeaux scoring 95 at $16.95.

There are couple of things driving this trend. One is that some reviewers are factoring lower price/value into their ratings, which to me is intellectually dishonest. And it signals that there is a commercial intent afoot. I am not saying these reviewers are being paid directly to score high, but they are well aware that high scores create sales and bring attention to their own businesses.

This attention seeking applies to major wine competitions as well as individuals. Several have arbitrarily set high bars for the awarding of medals. The Decanter World Wine Awards has pegged a score of 95 as their threshold for a gold medal. Thus, when Decanter magazine reviews that gold-medal wine, it is scored 95. In this case I have marginally more faith because the wine was at least panel tasted blind without price being known.

Quality should be the only thing that matter when it comes to scores. There are many existential and complicated factors that affect price, but quality — defined by balance, length, intensity and complexity — is the measurable core of the matter. Once in the glass a wine can no longer hide behind its label, story or price, and an experienced, objective taster can have it.

So, the best advice I have for WineAlign readers is to stick with us. Self-serving as that may be. Among all the major wine-scoring entities out there, we are the lowest scorers, which is not helping our business model. Many wineries and importers ignore us because our lower scores won’t help them sell wine.

But we are not doing this for them, and we are trying to be realistic and consistent because we have been doing this a long time and value the credibility with consumers that we have established.

What are our parameters? About 50% of the wines in Vintages releases are in the $15.95 to $24.95 price range. At this price the wine should be very good quality which we measure as 85 to 90 points. From $25 to $50 the wine should be excellent quality which we measure as 91 to 95 points. Over $50, the wine should be outstanding and scoring 95-plus. You rarely see us scoring in this range because frankly we rarely have access to the world’s greatest wines, partially because these self-assured wineries don’t seek scores.

What we do to express value is apply a five-star rating system, which we feel is a more important tool. But it only works in conjunction with the quality score, not being a replacement for it. And helping you find the best wine for your money is what this newsletter, indeed this entire enterprise is all about.

Here are our recommendations for this release, including multiple alignments on an excellent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a great Spanish Rioja.

FYI: We were pleased to be highlighted in the September 21, 2024 Vintages New Releases magazine as a review source that the LCBO trusts. WineAlign is listed among the most respected wine publications in the world. When it comes to wine contests we also run the National Wine Awards of Canada where all wines are tasted blind by our panel of judges.

Source: Vintages Magazine September 21, 2024

Buyer’s Guide September 21: White

Man Free Run Steen Chenin Blanc 2023, Coastal Region, South Africa
$16.95, Vonterra
David Lawrason – This is a nifty buy, showing better depth than expected for $16.95, sourced from some older vines which is a common thread in South Africa. What appeals most is the very keen acid line and integration of alcohol and very subtle sweetness. The aromas are classic chenin green apple/pear and a touch of lees – not highly complex.

Plaimont Les Cépages Préservés Saint Mont 2019, Southwest, France
$18.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – Saint-Mont is a small appellation in the French Pyrenees. You may have had whites from more well known Jurancon in the same vicinity. It is quite a powerful, compact and complex white with sappy/resinous, evergreen, yellow fruit and waxy notes. Well balanced and quite richly textured.
John Szabo – This blend of local varieties from the redoubtable Plaimont cooperative, which has indeed done much to preserve such autochthonous varieties, is showing remarkably well for a five year odl unoaked white wine. There’s plenty of intrigue and interest here for $19.
Megha Jandhyala – At under $20, this blend of indigenous varieties from Southwest France is a well-priced and unusual find! Appealingly fleshy and tart, brimming with orchard, stone, and citrus fruit, it is likely to please a wide variety of palates.

Pesolillo Pecorino Superiore 2022, Abruzzo, Italy
$21.95, VINOLOGIE
Sara d’Amato – Pecorino is a white specialty of Abruzzo along with trebbiano d’Abruzzo, that has a particular affinity to this wet, sunny, and mountainous appellation. This youthful, single vineyard, certified organic pecorino features complex flavours of apple blossom, orange zest, melon, mango, and dried sage. Barrique aging and battonage has added volume to the palate with the faintest hint of wood spice.

Garage Wine Co. País Cariñena Phoenix Ferment Single Ferment Series 2022, Maule Valley, Chile
$26.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – Red grape varieties, vinified like whites, quick pressed and boom, a white blend is born. Salty and briny, no shortage of extract and ultimately a matter of contact, or the lack thereof here speaking. What will Derek Mossman Knapp think of next? For now, he’s a man on a mission. He does as he pleases.

Thirty Bench Small Lot Riesling Wood Post Vineyard 2019, Ontario, Canada
$32.00, Andrew Peller Limited
John Szabo – A beautifully mature riesling pretty much at peak drinking, to be captured while the fruit walks the line of fresh and caramel-tinged. A Niagara classic.
David Lawrason – Now showing some maturing notes of peach pit, honey and white mushroom, with some petrol. It was a cool Niagara vintage ideal for those who like slim, dry, tart edged yet very cohesive wines. This is a classic example.

Clos Henri Waimaunga Windblown Clays Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand
$32.95, Charton Hobbs
John Szabo – Don’t expect typical Marlborough sauvignon – already the price should be an indication that this is a premium example out of the mainstream mould. High-density, organically dry-farmed vines deliver exceptional intensity with a minerally-diesel edge and terrific length.
David Lawrason – This a more expensive Marlborough sauvignon but it measures up. From a hillside vineyard block, it has an intense, slightly reductive, flinty nose with grapefruit, passion fruit/guava and evergreen. It is medium weight on a quite fine acid-alcohol frame. Some finesse here.
Michael Godel – High level and seriously concentrated sauvignon blanc that takes variety from place to another level. A mix of intensity and richness, depth and complexity. Very impressive – and not just higher, but next level stuff.
Megha Jandhyala – This is premium sauvignon blanc – an intriguing departure from the intensely fruity iterations of the grape from this region that we often see in our market. Made with organically-grown fruit from a single vineyard in Marlborough, it is concentrated, complex, and self-possessed. I was struck by its captivatingly silky, balanced palate and memorable finish.

Vietti Perbacco Langhe Nebbiolo 2020, Piedmont, Italy
$36.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Unexpectedly juicy and generous, this Langhe nebbiolo is just about ready-to-drink with explosive red fruit, savory herbs, buoyant acids and impressive length. Eye-catching packaging encases a succulent wine with botanicals and subtly textured tannins.

Bachelder Bai Xu Vineyard Vignes De 1981 Chardonnay 2021, Ontario, Canada
$49.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
Michael Godel – This is the 40 year-old vineyard work of Jackson Bai as expressed through a monk’s hands, eyes, palate and heart. It’s truly unique, even in the world of chardonnay.

Buyer’s Guide September 21: Red

Marina Danieli Merlot 2018, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
$20.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Sara d’Amato – If you’re one of the many who take a pass on merlot, I urge you to take a second look at this floral, alpine expression from the hilly, cooler reaches of Friuli Colli Orientali. Concentrated, mid-weight with an appealing acid-tannin balance and delicate wood treatment, this elegant red is both tense and gratifying.

Château Lafond Canon Fronsac 2016, Bordeaux, France
$22.95, PV W&S
David Lawrason – This is a very well-priced Bordeaux performing at prime. The aromas have evolved to express complex raspberry jam, tobacco, cedar and leather. It is medium weight, well balanced with good acidity, warming alcohol and fine tannin.

Les Grands Chais De France Cuvée 8 Savoie Pinot Noir 2022, Savoie, France
$24.95, HEKTARS AGENCE INC.
Sara d’Amato – Along the French-Swiss border, tucked into the Alps, the region of Savoie is better known for its raclette matched white wines and the deeply coloured red mondeuse variety. Yet there is some gamay and pinot noir planted there too, and it is rare to find it on this side of the pond. At a price that won’t break the bank, this youthful expression is clean and succulent with more structure than anticipated.

Norton Privada Family Blend 2021, Mendoza, Argentina
$23.95, PMA Canada
David Lawrason – This is the flagship blend of a large estate in Mendoza, combining malbec, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. The nose is not effusive, but it is complex with blackcurrant, mulberry, violet and fresh herbs. It is full bodied, fairly dense, and hase excellent flavour depth. A cellar sleeper.
Megha Jandhyala – Originally reserved for the Swarovski family’s personal consumption and made with fruit from the winery’s oldest vineyards, Norton’s Privada Family Blend is deliciously dense, yet supported by a firm palate. I love the rich notes of ripe dark fruit, pepper, vanilla, violets, and dried leaves that resonate on the finish.

Torre Zambra Colle Maggio 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
$25.95, Marchands des Ameriques
Megha Jandhyala – This will appeal to those who enjoy ripe, bold, full-bodied wines. It opens with a floral scent that is heady and unrestrained, less delicate than wild, followed by rich tones of sweet, plump dark fruit and savoury herbs and spices.

Château Belle Assise Coureau 2020, Bordeaux, France
$28.95, AMV-Whiz Trading Ltd.
Megha Jandhyala – If you are looking for reasonably priced red Bordeaux, this is an excellent choice. With deep, dense flavours of ripe fruit, herbs, violets and spice, this Saint-Émilion reflects both its varietal and regional character, while its firm structure means it has the potential for mid-term cellaring.

Tawse Growers Blend Cabernet Franc 2020, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Tawse
David Lawrason – The excellent 2020 vintage in Niagara has been very kind to cabernet franc, a category that has done well at the National Wine Awards of Canada. This finds very good varietal purity and balance. It is mid-weight, balanced and warming with firm but not austere tannin. With some age, better cohesion and elegance is setting in.
Sara d’Amato – One of my go-to Niagara reds is Tawse’s Growers Blend cabernet franc as it consistently delivers aromatic potency with plenty of satisfying richness and a solid acidic backbone. This vintage does not disappoint and has been aged to optimum drinkability.

Malivoire Courtney Gamay 2021, Ontario, Canada
$34.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – The vintage is a stellar one and so all that we have come to love about gamay as Courtney is on display. Sour-edged juicy red fruit, liquid pepperiness, calm earthy undercurrent and those elements and minerals that set this OG apart. This is the price to pay, in more than one way for proper Ontario gamay.

Leaning Post Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$34.95, LEANING POST WINES
Sara d’Amato – Leaning Post is on my radar for both pinot noir and syrah. This wife-and-husband team focuses on finding and growing high-quality fruit and judiciously aging it in barrique. With no need for cellaring, this inviting and energetic pinot noir offers great depth of flavour despite a lighter mouthfeel. Tannins contribute a modicum of grip and texture on and expansive palate that features both fresh and dried cherry fruit, wildflower, tilled earth, iron and very delicate wood spice.

Dublin St. Pinot Noir 2015, Martinborough, New Zealand
$37.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
Michael Godel – Crisp, crunchy and creative single vineyard pinot noir, laces pulled taut and expressiveness having taken its time to emerge. Which it has and maturity is upon the fruit, but quite frankly the level of deliciousness is off the charts.

Balbás 24 Reserva Tempranillo 2018, Ribera Del Duero, Spain
$43.95, LE SAVOIR-BOIRE
David Lawrason – This is a modern yet classic Spanish red. The texture, richness yet linearity is very impressive and stylish. But the aromas and flavours – with all that resinous/varnished American oak – are old school. No right or wrong here, and not affecting my rating. It is complex, elegant and long.

Closson Chase Churchside Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$45.00, CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARDS INC.
John Szabo – The 2021 Churchside pinot stays in the vein of savoury, earthy and dark-fruited as it has in previous editions, with fine succulence the saliva-inducing qualities. Drinking well now.

La Rioja Alta Ardanza Reserva 2016, Rioja, Spain (375ml)
$30.95, ROY + CO. SELECTIONS INC.
David Lawrason – Note this is half bottle! What a lovely wine. Expect a very generous, exotic nose with harissa spice, camphor, vanilla, walnut, some earthiness and dried cranberry. It is medium weight, balanced on a pin, smooth but not soft, with fine tannin. The length is excellent to outstanding.
John Szabo – Such arch-classic Rioja, offering a delicious mix of plum pudding and Christmas cake, sweet dried and liqueur-soaked red and black berries, and abundant but integrated wood spice. Ready to drink or hold another 2-4 years in this small bottle.
Megha Jandhyala – This gently maturing, eight-year-old Rioja is drinking beautifully now. Intense, integrated, and complex, it has a classic flavour profile, while its structure is impeccably balanced. I love the lingering saline note on the enchanting finish. Moreover, this 375ml bottle lends itself to a quiet, reflective experience, the kind of occasion on which one wants only one or two glasses of a special wine.
Sara d’Amato – A charming 2016 Reserva in a drink-alone appropriate format. The tempranillo and garnacha grapes are sourced from individual vineyards that are at least 30 years old. With an impressive 30-36 months of aging in barrique, the tannins have been perfectly resolved and the oak spice is elegantly integrated. Lightly spicy and full of character, red-fruited with leathery maturity, along with lingering flavours of earl grey, botanicals, and a hint of peppercorn.

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$77.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Colombini’s exceptional 2019 Brunello is showing exceptionally well now, with a gorgeous set of aromatics, fully textbook stuff. There’s much hype around the 2019 vintage, which I consider among the best of the last 20 years (along with 2016), and this wine speaks to the quality and balance provided by nature. Best 2026-2040.

Col D’orcia Brunello Di Montalcino 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$64.95, Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd.
Michael Godel – Many producers will go low and some high, but Col d’Orcia stays the estate heritage course to make sure both early generosity and, more importantly, aging is the long-term plan. Fine wine so worthy of praises because we know it will impress in 2039.

Buyer’s Guide September 21: Fortified

Zuleta Oloroso Dry Sherry, Jerez, Spain
$18.95, AMV-Whiz Trading Ltd.
John Szabo – A glorious old oloroso, another marvel of flavour complexity and depth at a price that’s scarcely credible in today’s wine world. The relative unpopularity of these ancient relics is the wise consumer’s advantage.

And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return for the October 5 release with some recommendations around Thanksgiving.

– David Lawrason

Use these quick links for access to all of our September 21st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – September 21st
Megha’s Picks – September 21st
Michael’s Mix – September 21st
Sara’s Selections – September 21st
Szabo’s Smart Buys – September 21st

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram for the latest WineAlign recommendations, tips and other interesting wine information.