Buyers Guide to Vintages August 29th Release

Binding Books and Wine

By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

This smaller release of 83 products is themed in Vintages catalogue as “Book Club: Thoughtful Wines and Literary Pairings.” Although the selection process is not explained in detail, apparently Vintages staffers and “their friends at Indigo Books” got together to match 17 wines with 17 books, based very loosely on literary themes like “Romantic Fling,” “Worlds Collide,” “Magical Fantasy” and “Ancient Lore,” to name some. It seems a well-considered collection of literary themes, even if the wine matches are not always intuitive.

This continues a trend at Vintages to market wines based more on how we might enjoy them and less about what they are, where they are from and who made them – which is very much a modern marketing strategy. On the last release they were matching wines to take-out food, also a useful idea. And if you haven’t read John Szabo s deep dive on this topic, I urge you to order in, pull a bottle and give the article a read while waiting for your food to arrive. It is one of his best pieces in a rich catalogue over the years.

And speaking of good reads by WineAlign critics, the much-awaited new book on Chianti Classico by Michael Godel is just arriving on our shores. It is not yet released or available for purchase, but it is called “The Next Rooster, Chianti Classico’s New Generation.” The title references the Gallo Nero logo of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, the body that regulates and markets the wines of this important DOCG wine region in Tuscany. Michael is the Consorzio s brand ambassador in Canada, giving him a front row seat to the changes propelling the region into the modern era.

Says Michael: “Through 44 essays, [the book] brings together the stories of families whose lives, vineyards and futures are rooted in the hills of one of Italy s most historic and dynamic wine regions. The next generation are stepping into roles shaped by inheritance, responsibility and change.”

But back to book clubs, which are an increasingly important human element of our modern times. I belong to a book club too, but only in name. It is actually a boy’s night out BYO wining and dining night, where never a page has been turned and the only reading we do is back labels. But the group is a fascinating collection of musicians, entrepreneurs, finance guys and scientists. The conversations are always stimulating, and the camaraderie is the glue. I am the book club sommelier, threading wine education through the many conversations.

And this is wine’s role in our world. Being an elixir and catalyst, bringing people together, loosening conversation, encouraging creativity and exchange, while bringing its own fascinating and detailed personality into the mix. In an era of growing screen-time isolation and global ennui it is imperative that this continue, and that wine, which has performed this role throughout history, not be demonized and marginalized.

A Franco-Canadian Gamay Tutorial

Speaking of education, we often find unexpected themes and connections as we taste through Vintages selections. This time there is a happenstance of gamays from Ontario and France, and one wine that threads both. And it will only take the purchase of four wines, for a total of $105, to make this a talking and teaching point at your next club meeting. There are two Ontario gamays, one classic Beaujolais and one Beaujolais made in France by Ontario winemaker Thomas Bachelder (see review below).

He, and a handful of others in Niagara, are elevating the gamay grape to the status of a core variety in Ontario, joining riesling, chardonnay, cabernet franc and pinot noir. But Ontario gamay is not necessarily being made in Beaujolais’s softer, fruity, juicy style — they are often more firm with subtle minerality and wood ageing. These wines can be more pinot noir-like.

The one traditional Beaujolais — Chateau des Tours Brouilly 2024 — is absolutely delicious and classic, and a pick below. From Niagara, the Back 10 Cellars Everything at Stake Gamay 2024, is a typical, pale, quite complex and rigid Ontario example. Hidden Bench 2024 Gamay is rigid too, but more aromatically complex, compelling and intense. Then along comes the Beaujolais made by Bachelder that is very much fruity and floral French gamay on the nose, with a firmness and minerality that hearkens to Ontario on the palate.

There are many other interesting wines in this mix as always, so lets move right to our critics’ picks, arranged in ascending price order within style categories. We were a full complement of five this time, extending the list below.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 29: Sparkling

Pere Ventura Primer Organic Reserva Brut 2023, Penedès, Spain
$20.95, Rogers & Company
Megha Jandhyala – This dry Cava will appeal to most wallets and palates! Showcasing both breadth and depth of flavour, it features notes of toasted brioche, roasted nuts, and fresh and dried stone and orchard fruit. Neither lean nor rich, just gently creamy and lively, it is the kind of sparkling wine that would make Goldilocks happy.
Michael Godel – Aromatics, flavour compounds and spices bring more than the average to a dry sparkling wine at a really good price.
David Lawrason – Such a complex, exotic and intriguing nose of apricot, honey, barley sugar and strudel pastry, with a rancio/peanut note as well. It is full flavoured and quite intense, with a sense of sweetness yet great acidity. Almost sherry-like, or at least definitely very Spanish.
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There are 17 other Vintages recommendations this week that are only available to our premium members. This complete article will be free and visible to all members 60 days after publication. We invite you to subscribe today to unlock our top picks and other Premium benefits

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And that is a wrap for this edition. We return to cover the September 12 release, which — as always at the beginning of harvest — features Ontario wines. – David

Use these quick links for access to all of our August 29th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – August 29th
Lawrason’s Take – August 29th
Megha’s Picks – August 29th
Michael’s Mix – August 29th
Sara’s Selections – August 29th

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