Buyers Guide to Vintages February 21st Release

The Emerging Hemisphere

by David Lawrason with notes from Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

Vintages features the Southern Hemisphere in this release. To broach such an expansive subject with a handful of wines — albeit well-chosen — somehow signals the lack of regard that the much larger Northern Hemisphere-dominated wine world holds for the south. And how shallow our notions of the wines and their countries remain.

Here are the common perceptions I would bet are widely held in the Canadian marketplace. Australia equals shiraz, New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Chile cabernet sauvignon, Argentina malbec, Uruguay tannat. (Uruguay makes wine?) Only South Africa seems to have been spared the varietal pigeon-holing, unless you want to include “value” as a calling card, with chenin blanc and syrah as up-and-comers. The respective countries all built these stereotypes, but time is marching on and diversifying the wine landscape of the Southern Hemisphere.

I was reminded of this last week at a trade tasting featuring the wines of the state of Victoria in Australia (Melbourne is the capital). During the seminar, Master of Wine Mark Davidson, who markets Aussie wines in North America, told us how often he encounters the bias/perception that Australia is just shiraz. And that the perception tends to be negative, whereas Aussie shiraz can achieve stunning heights and prices, which I encountered in January during a private student reunion tasting featuring back vintages of Penfolds Grange and Henschke’s Hill of Grace. But even in far less expensive sphere’s, Aussie shiraz is a bona fide, world-class style. Yet Davidson, who spent his early career as a Toronto sommelier, recounted a recent experience in the U.S. where only 30 seats in a 100-seat venue at a major Aussie shiraz tasting were filled.

The Toronto seminar on the wines of Victoria, was well attended, but not packed. The sommeliers, social media influencers and very few traditional scribes (who still write whole articles with ink-dipped quills) were drawn by this subject because Victoria is perhaps the coolest, thus the “coolest,” of major Aussie regions. Its southern zones are within hailing distance of the cold Southern Ocean, and interior regions are elevation-cooled by the Australian Alps. It makes most of the country’s outstanding pinot noirs and chardonnays. And yes, lots of shiraz as well, if with a leaner, more peppery, mineral ambiance.

It gets even more interesting. Did you know that there are 21 wine appellations in Victoria alone, with over 600 wineries? In Australia there are almost 120 GIs, or Geographical Indicators (appellations). In much smaller New Zealand there are 12 major regions but within each there are subdivisions that may or may not show up on labels. About 10 years ago I wrote a long piece that identified over 20 sub-zones for NZ pinot noir alone. Chile has 18 regional appellations, with many smaller sub-zones locally identified. Argentina has over 100 official appellations. South Africa has a very complex appellation system that includes named “wards” but there are roughly 60 such locations that might be considered and named as wine regions. Uruguay has 16! (Yes, Uruguay does make wine)

So, the Southern Hemisphere is not some homogenous mass. One can throw up one’s hands and say enough already, I will just drink what I like and know from the north. Or one can take the dive, knowing that every bottle from a specifically identified place will produce a wine with difference. Which Europe has writ as a fine art for a much longer time, and which the Southern Hemisphere is offering at much lower prices. I have had the rare and great fortune to have crossed the equator about 20 times. And I suggest that the “emerging” hemisphere is very much worth getting to know, and ultimately as interesting and quality competent as the north.

As mentioned, Vintages has done a good job selecting for this release (we have not tasted them all). But we have also recommended other very noteworthy Northern Hemisphere wines, including from Ontario’s backyard which put on quite a show — especially the half dozen whites highlighted below.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 21: Whites

Bortoluzzi Pinot Grigio 2024, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
$22.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – More complex and interesting than many Italian grigios, showing some peach colour from skin contact, and a rich, creamy palate. The nose is soft and fruity with apricot, florals and a sweet hay notion. It is medium bodied, fresh, delicate and sweet-edged.
Sara d’Amato – This grigio leans “gris” in spirit — a little richer, a little rounder, yet with just 3 g/L of sugar, it is barely off-dry. Thoughtfully made, delicately floral, and more compelling than you’d expect.

Kew Marsanne 2023, Ontario, Canada
$22.95, Arterra Wines Canada
Megha Jandhyala – This uncommon Ontario blend of marsanne and viognier is a treat! I especially like its rich and creamy texture, and the pleasing impression of sweet, ripe stone and citrus fruit on its palate.

Organized Crime Limestone Block Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Rogers & Company
Michael Godel – A perennial winner of medals at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada because the quality and value of this Bench chardonnay is nearly peerless in Niagara. Barrel work and winemaking restraint, breaths of acidity and wisps of smoulder, almost, but not quite in a reductive way. Délicieux.
David Lawrason – This NWAC Gold Medalist is a spry almost airy chardonnay that captures that delicate ambiance of the Beamsville Bench, wrought by the limestone laced soils. The texture is on the lighter side with 12.8% alcohol and lacy/racy acidity. The finish is quite mineral and a touch green.
Megha Jandhyala – Supple and sprightly, this subtle Ontario chardonnay is impeccably balanced, with finespun flavours of oak spice and delicious notes of orchard and stone fruit.

Thirty Bench Triangle Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$28.95, Andrew Peller Limited
Michael Godel – The acids from 2021 are striking, veering into the eye of a searing storm, with pulpy fruit alongside. Cracker stuff, also gripped by phenols and should age 20 years easy. Just 196 cases produced.

Domaine Queylus Tradition Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$33.70, Marchands des Ameriques
Sara d’Amato – The Olympics may be over, but there are still Canadians to cheer for. This 2022 Chardonnay from Domaine Queylus, made by Kelly Mason, is nutty, rich, and satisfying without heaviness. Barrel-fermented with ambient yeast and made in a small-lot, low-interventionist style, it balances relatively low alcohol with impressive texture and complexity.
Michael Godel – Holding firm, from original strength through to current form and without any gain on the fruit as time has passed on by. Classic of Tradition style now come to full effect, best now and still to drink for another year, potentially two.

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$39.95, Stratus Vineyards
Michael Godel – A tannic Picone from Charles Baker from the first sip. Exotic spicing in a cumin-coriander masala way. Baker himself says that the 2021 is true to form and represents the vintage properly. “It will age beyond me.” Right up there with the ’06, ’11 and ’16.

Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$55.00, Arterra Wines Canada
Sara d’Amato – The fruit comes from premium vineyards on the Twenty Mile Bench, sitting on the first rise of the Jordan Bench, a natural plateau along the slope of the Niagara Escarpment, and planted in tight Burgundian row spacing for optimal intensity. The result is an unmistakably elegant and refined chardonnay that builds steadily in concentration and depth to a long, composed finish.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 21: Reds

Cellier Des Saint Etienne Côte De Brouilly 2024, Beaujolais, France
$20.95, Tocade
Megha Jandhyala – I find this Brouilly very appealing, with its cheerful and lively flavours, including black pepper, wild shrubs, and perfectly ripe blueberries and dark cherries. I would break out a bottle or two of this cru Beaujolais, lightly chilled, at dinner parties this spring and summer!

Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2023, Marlborough, New Zealand
$21.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – A rare Marlborough pinot noir whose youthful expressiveness would benefit from a decant. Bright, juicy and brimming with red berries, bramble and pressed wildflower with just a hint of spice. A vibrant, unfolding gem

Falernia Titon Vineyard Syrah Reserva 2022, Elquí Valley, Chile
$22.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
Sara d’Amato – A confident syrah with swagger. Pepper, violet, cedar and a hint of smoke leap from the glass, with a savoury, meaty edge — a vivid reflection of where it’s grown. From the pioneering, stoney Titón vineyard in the Elqui Valley, Chile’s northern winemaking frontier, just 18 kilometres from the Pacific, it’s bold, complex, and impressively long.
David Lawrason – This sports an amazingly lifted syrah nose of smoked meat, licorice/anise, pepper and dried cherry. It is full bodied, warm, silky smooth and almost sweet-edged with a candied feel that Euro classicists may not love. But this is delicious stuff from one of the most unique terroirs of the Southern Hemisphere.
Michael Godel – Inkiest of Elqui Valley syrah of strength, grip and meaty to the nth degree. Bold, of both blood sausage and rare meats, sanguine juices running, choose your fascination, take your pick.

Armenia Wine Company Yerevan 782 Bc Winemaker’s Blend 2024, Armenia
$22.95, Matvil
Sara d’Amato – Named for Yerevan, a city founded in 782 BC, this Armenian red taps into one of the world’s oldest wine traditions, with ancient winemaking roots traced to the Areni Caves. A blend of the local grapes areni and karmrahyut, it’s naturally spicy, with a clean yet pleasantly wild edge. A compelling, ready-to-drink red with broad appeal.
Megha Jandhyala – This is an enchanting example of modern Armenian winemaking, though the country has been a seat of winemaking for millennia. Grown at a high elevation, it is lissom and approachable, with luminous flavours of red fruit, herbs, and wildflowers.
David Lawrason – Despite the expectation that this should be a rustic wine of antiquity, it is actually a very modern and mellow red with lively plummy/pomegranate fruit, dried flowers, candied beets and tobacco. It is medium bodied, a tad sweet and warm, but well balanced.

Organized Crime Cabernet Franc 2022, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Rogers & Company
Sara d’Amato – Local wines shine brightly in this Vintages release and here is yet another example. This cabernet franc from Organized Crime is an engaging find, distinctive of its grape and origins, that features near-supple tannins and complex tertiary flavours just beginning to set in. Offers a featherweight loftiness, smart acidity, and an ample degree of fresh fruit.

Schild Estate Ben Schild Reserve Shiraz 2021, South Australia, Australia
$29.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
David Lawrason – A terrific example of Barossa shiraz — big, bold and ripe — but also nicely detailed and well balanced within its largesse. Love the still youthful nose of cassis, peppermint, chocolate and subtle baking spices. It is full bodied (14.5%) yet energized, fairly firm, and juicy with firm tannins.
Sara d’Amato – A sensual, purple-hued syrah with gravitas. Peppery blackberry, lavender and a kiss of oak spice mark the dense and concentrated palate, lifted by a vein of freshness. From Barossa’s Angus Brae Vineyard, open-fermented and aged in mixed oak, it’s youthfully energetic with serious length.

Château De Bel Air Lalande De Pomerol 2015, Bordeaux, France
$48.95, Rogers & Company
David Lawrason – This has matured to a most excellent place, where ripe almost stewed yet very much intact berry/plummy fruit sits in a wash of tobacco smoke, leather, dried herbs and mushroom that defines older right bank Bordeaux. There is good weight and richness but the fine texture is the most notable palate experience.

Castello Di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Docg San Lorenzo 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$76.95, Halpern Enterprises
Michael Godel – The vintage is renowned to be important and so arrive expecting fullness of everything involved, but also a fortress yet to be breached. A tough one indeed still at this stage with verticality and immovability. Needs at least two more years.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 21: Sake

Shunka Shusetsu Echizen Junmai Ginjo Sake, Japan, World
$28.95, Dbino Inc.
David Lawrason – I am not a sake expert. But I really liked this and easily brought objective measurements like intensity, balance, complexity and length to bear. And there is a real sense of these elements coming together beautifully in this sake. It has very lifted complex nose of tapioca (rice) pudding, anise, Japanese pear and Easter lily. It is medium-full, intensely flavoured, dry yet silky and rich with a strong anise finish.
Megha Jandhyala – I really like this sake — its flavour profile is immaculate, with a sense of purity and focus. Toasted jasmine rice, apple blossoms, and hints of nectarines make up its sweet melody, while its palate is alluringly viscous and glossy.

And that it is wrap for this edition. We return in two weeks with a report on the March 7 release.

Use these quick links for access to all of our February 21st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

Lawrason’s Take – February 21st
Michael’s Mix – February 21st
Sara’s Selections – February 21st
Megha’s Picks – February 21st

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