This is what I love about Italian whites: an obscure, local, distinctive grape, subtle and restrained, nutty but sufficiently fruity, bitter but sufficiently sweet, immensely food-friendly, great value. Not much depth or intensity, but there's a lot going on with notes of almond, hazelnut, orange, lemon, and citrus pith and zest, with mild minerality and an emerging touch of tropical fruit, mostly pineapple. It has its limitations, including a bit too much bitterness on the finish and a sense of excessive oxidation by the second day, but it's quite impressive without being showy in any way.