This Cava from Lower Penedès is low on fruit, but there's abundant lemon and apple, the former providing tartness, the latter providing richness. But the focus is on the savoury elements, grass, herbs, and raw nuts but more notably olives, the brine leading to a distinctly salty, brilliantly food-friendly finish. This is so vivacious and refreshing, powerful, with small but aggressive bubbles, yet also restrained and refined. It could use more fruit to balance the rest, but this is impressive Cava at a great price. (First bottle: 89. Second, with less fruit and too much briny caper: 87.)