From rocky, sun-drenched Tautavel, in Roussillon, this brings ripe blackberry, raspberry, and dark cherry joined by characteristic earth and garrigue, as well as olive, mint, and, most notably, a fabulous mineral streak uniting these disparate elements through the long finish. An initial ascetic whiff departs quickly, leaving the rustic essence of the Midi to shine, chalky texture, muddled flavours, rough edges, and all. But Bertrand brings elegance too, as usual, a sense of proportion, and this is what lifts this authentic "Grand Terroir," one of his best, well above the regional norm.