90
What a super Ontario bubbly, showcasing such refinement, complexity, and sheer deliciousness that it could easily pass for a sparkling wine, even a high-powered French one, at two or three times the price. It nicely balances notes of lemon, fresh bread, pear, nuts, and a broad spectrum of apple (from tart green to sweeter Royal Gala) on a wave of zingy, refreshing acidity and with impressive body and length, a yeasty streak providing continuity throughout, held back only by aromatic austerity. A sophisticated pleasure, all in all, light and invigorating but also deep and satisfying.
89
