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In the end, this Assyrtiko from Santorini is too tart for its own good, with a puckering sourness that overwhelms even as it refreshes, but it's still pretty remarkable otherwise. It takes some time to open up in the glass, lemon first, then yellow plum, then, as it evolves, a raw-almond nuttiness that isn't entirely successful, but the highlights are the distinctive notes produced by volcanic soil and island air, namely, expressive minerality throughout and a faint touch of salt hovering about. Time could tame the excess and deepen the flavours, but even now, so young, it's pretty amazing.
