93
90
90
June 2018
90
90
89
This unabashedly old-fashioned wine is a remarkable thing to experience. At any given time, it's anywhere from 87-91, fabulously complex at its best, unbalanced at its worst, shifting and evolving over the course of minutes, hours, and days. The main problem is the barnyard funk that dominates at first and then ebbs and flows. It's fine as part of the mix but somewhat repugnant when at its strongest. But for a 2001, there's still so much going on, with vibrant cherry, currant, and red berries, along with leather, baking spice, licorice, vanilla, and oak. So much to like, but, alas, that funk.
89
