This is a rich, concentrated, yet (in the words of Sara d'Amato) fine and focused Barossa blend.
It's a delicious mix of black fruits, licorice, baking spice and black pepper. After some time in the decanter, it finishes with some added earthy notes (truffles?). But it's the acidity that keeps this from becoming yet another Australian fruit bomb.
On the palate it's mouth coating and smooth, but with freshness and some structure providing great length.
Overall, well worth the $21.
I usually take 3-4 points away from James Halliday reviews, but he may have underestimated this one...